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  1. Hi all, My situation is this;- I found that making the blue composite invisible adds a really nice yellow to the light parts of my already red image. I like it, but when I export to jpeg it isn't in the final image. So how do I get the "minus blue composite" image to "stick"? - I've been diving into how composite channels work, and watching the AF videos about this, but still can't wrap my head around the concept. Can anyone explain how to do this in steps for me (if that's possible)? thanks in advance, Luke
  2. Thanks for your response, Lee. Metal hardware acceleration wasn't on, but it was chosen in the "display" menu. Switching it to another selection pretty much solved it to within a second response time. Thanks for the pointer. I don't fully understand those choices - is there somewhere to read up on the explanation of "software, open GL and Metal". The help seems to be a bit out of date, but maybe I don't know how to find the info. thanks again, Luke
  3. Hi all, The histogram and scope have about 5 second lag as I'm editing the curves adjustement on a 2mb jpeg photo (taken on an iphone). This destroy the work flow as you can imagine. Doing the same thing on a 250kb jpeg photo has less than a second delay - which is business as usual. I'm using a macbook Pro 15" mid 2012 with NVidia videocard and 16gb of ram on High Sierra. All software is fully updated - mac, Nvidia and Photo. Does this seem normal to you? It doesn't to me. I use Davinci Resolve for producing films on the same machine, and the colour scopes respond instantly to running film. Is there a tweak in Photo that I'm missing, or is it something to be improved? Thanks in advance for your responses. groetjes, Luke
  4. Hi, Does anyone have any experiences of using an iPad with a stylus as a graphics tablet for Design, Photo or really any other software on their computer where using a pen is better. I've narrowed it down to the following three apps 1. Astropad Graphics Tablet 2. Air Display 3 3. Duet Display I've bought the Bamboo Fineline 2 stylus which works quite nicely on the ipad in different apps. I downloaded the Astropad mini (free) which says you can't use it on the ipad, but actually you can draw behind the big splash screen to test it out. It flows very nicely without any noticable lag for me. I felt the flow of drawing, and it translated to the computer screen with ease. I tested it with AD, AP & Mischief (free version). The only drawback I see is that when something moves it pixelates coarsely, so videos are grainy, but also the "running ants" selection is blurred in AD and AP. I also downloaded Air Login - from the same company as Air Display 3 - which was very laggy, although I don't know if AD3 works with the same connection. (I'm mailing with the maker.) I haven't been able to check out Duet Display. What's you're story? cheers, Luke
  5. Just tried out the masking with great success and satisfaction. Just what I wanted. Using black and white was the revelation. I'll check out the tutorials too. Thanks all for the tips. Luke
  6. aha. That sounds a better way to do it. Thanks, CarmenCo. I have been using masks, but get a bit confused. will learn more about them.
  7. I'm learning how to use Photo and am enjoying it as many are. I'm erasing parts of one layer to reveal the layer beneath, and sometimes I see later on I've gone too far, and want to bring some of the first layer back. How do I do this? I know I can use the undo, but then I get rid of any work I've done in the mean time (in this case quite a lot of fiddly stuff I'd rather keep. Or is it gone forever? Much thanks for any help. Greets, Luke
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