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Asha

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Everything posted by Asha

  1. It sounds like you want a clipping path so that the teeth and tongue do not show outside the border of the lips. I tried it, and was able to activate layer clipping by dragging the "child" layer onto the "parent" layer. There is a layer clipping help page within Affinity Designer which has a lot more info.
  2. What kind of changes? Things like noise-reduction, sharpening and color correction? ETA: I must not have been reading well enough, I see you said white balance, exposure, etc.
  3. I've fiddled with Astropad--it is far superior than another desktop mirroring app I've tried. I read somewhere that it works much better if plugged into the USB. I can confirm it is a little choppy over bluetooth/wireless. It does work on iPad Air, but the screen is a tad small. I've used Adonit Jot Touch with PixelPoint and a non-bluetooth microfiber stylus I got at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Stylus-amPen-Hybrid-Interchangeable-Feature/dp/B008MOHLVC/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1453319341&sr=1-1&keywords=ampen
  4. Those instructions from Flyeralarm are extremely confusing. I can make some assumptions...it sounds to me like they want you to have the top layer as the varnish layer, rather than a separate file. In the varnish layer, you need to specify it as a special non-CMYK color, and the area needs to be 100% coverage. Also, they want you to have the layer set to overprint. To be honest, I think they are asking you to do some of the things THEY should be doing in their pre-press preparation. You may need to ask somebody there for clarification, because making assumptions can sometimes lead to something you don't really want.
  5. Hi schizandra--yes, it's me! :) I haven't tried to use AP with Astropad with iPad Pro and pencil, and so far have been diddling around with only a mouse. I would say AP is much more like Photoshop than Procreate. With both PS and AP, although it is possible to paint, there are a hefty number of photo editing tools which Procreate doesn't have. To me, Procreate is more like the desktop program Corel Painter, but much more intuitive and directly accessible due to touch, gestures and stylus input on the iPad.
  6. If there are features you would like to see implemented, you can post in the Feature Request forum. Before you do, be sure to check the sticky post with the outlined roadmap--it could be that something you want is already planned for a future release.
  7. I saw on another thread that there was an issue with the format of the RAW file. If you convert to a DNG, do you still have the issue?
  8. I really only use photo editing software, but I occasionally use vector drawing software, and wanted to support the developer, so I bought both.
  9. PhotoNewbie, you can always paint on the highlights within AP ;) ETA: For future photographs, I remembered this tutorial I saw on the web. The photographer achieves some truly wonderful lighting with some basic adjustments to his flash. http://neilvn.com/tangents/about/black-foamie-thing/
  10. Back in the day, if we wanted line art to look crisp in a raster file, we RIPped it to 1200-2400 dpi with no aliasing. Even vector art got RIPped when we output to film :)
  11. DesignBunny--are you hosting the photo on a service such as Flickr? Or are you putting the photos directly into the blog page?
  12. PhotoNewbie--may I also suggest that you try different lighting in future pet photographs. When you flash from the camera into the pet's face, you are more likely to get the glowing eyes. I'm not saying that you shouldn't correct glowing eyes in pics you already have, but that you might try some other photography techniques to give yourself something closer to what you want.
  13. PhotoNewbie--in the layers palette towards the bottom there is a circle with half black and half white. If you click on that, you will see the options to create correction layers, including HSL, Selective Color, Color Balance, Curves and Levels. You select the type of correction you want to make, and it will create the correction layer of that style. On the correction layer, you put your mask so that only the eyes are affected. Then, use the controls (sliders, curves, whatever) to adjust the color of the eyes. As I said previously, you may need more than one of various different kinds of correction layers, all with masks so that only the eyes are affected.
  14. PhotoNewbie--you definitely want to use a mask, so that part of both tutorials should be good for your needs. Once you have the mask, you can try different ways to correct color. In addition to those already suggested, you can try Selective Color or Color Balance to get the hue. You may also get best results if you combine several correction layers, including Curves or Levels since those will easily allow you to darken the color.
  15. The WP template I have used down-sizes automatically if the PNG is too large for the space. I have also noticed that I get better results when I allow WP to do the downsizing rather than doing it myself. There are limits, though--when I have a really large PNG and I allow WP to downsize, I get lots of moire on the high detail areas. I don't really know what the formula is, but I tend to allow ~200px more in each dimension, and I am happy with the result. Also, one thing to be aware of--some WP templates are optimized for mobile viewing. These templates will resize images and reflow text for every device and orientation, so the results can be a little bit hodgepodge.
  16. +1 for using masks nondestructively rather than using erase on the painting layer.
  17. MBd and Madame have good suggestions. If you're looking for tutorials, the "nodes" and "handles" are sometimes called bezier points and bezier handles. Usually, the fewer points you can use to create a shape, the better, so using a triangle as a base is a good foundation for what you want to do.
  18. The UI for this is a little counterintuitive...I would suggest for the size constraints that the units default to pixels. In an example file I'm using, if I select a 4" x 6" area to crop, the units say 25" x 16.667". It would also be nice if we could specify pixels per inch in the absolute crop size. It looks to me like it defaults to either 72 dpi or the native dpi of the file.
  19. That technique is called photo compositing, and there are many tutorials out there. Most will be for Photoshop, but there are analogous tools in AP. Here is a link that is generally about photo compositing: http://www.zevendesign.com/photo-compositing/ There is no one way or prescribed order of steps, but the main gist is that you need to bring the new photo into a separate layer of the main photo, and mask out the background.
  20. Hardouken, that thumbnail you posted looks like a glossy varnish to me. That is done in the printing stage. To prepare your file, you should have a 100% stroke on your circle in a special varnish color from your palette. It will be color separated similarly to how a Pantone color would be.
  21. My quick and dirty way of doing this is to create a layer with an outline that I can use to "snap to" when I need to crop later. Making a mask is also a good possibility. Either way, you still have to recrop, but you have a guideline to follow so you can repeat the size and position. Recropping will also be easier if you save your crop settings.
  22. Madame, were you able to get your Nik filters to work? Here are my settings--maybe it will help.
  23. I already had all my plugins installed, and then used the AP preferences to "link" to them as MEB described here: https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/6802-nik-software-plugins/?p=75486 In the process, that is how I found out about the problems with DxO and ON1. I do agree it is a lot of trial and error in the current state of support.
  24. The Camera Raw filter equivalent in AP is the Develop Persona--here is where you can adjust the exposure, saturation, etc., as shown on the video. There are other ways also, but this is the closest analog to what is taught in the video. Also on the Develop Persona, you can get the softening effect by using the Noise Reduction sliders. I was not able to get the Denoise filter in the Photo Persona to work in the same way--perhaps someone else will chime in on that one. For the Glow effect, it is found in the Photo Persona, Filters>Blur>Diffuse Glow. I think you can follow the video tutorial rather closely by making these substitutions for AP.
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