conrad2k

I use the in-painting tool more than the clone stamp, yet every time I edit a new photo, I have find the in-painting tool under the clone stamp. I think the app should remember the last tool used and keep it selected between photos.

I use FileBrowser for Business (Apple App Store) to access images on a NAS server. Currently it works best to find the image using FileBrowser and then use the "Open in..." mechanism to bring it up in APi. It works from APi's "Import from Cloud" option, but currently doesn't show thumbnails of the image when used this way. Stratospherix (FileBrowser's developer) is working on this, but some encouragement from Serif and users would help.

Update: I noted that the APi app shows the wrong image resolution in the "Metadata Studio" while processing the image, but in the home screen it shows the correct image resolution, so it works. Interestingly when processing a Nikon RAW file, the "Metadata Studio" didn't show the image resolution at all, but on the Home screen, it shows the correct resolution. I have posted some of my observations on bugs under the iPad app bugs forum.

Hello Callum, I believe the correct link for iOS RAW updated support is https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207049 Cheers Roger

I purchased the Affinity Photo app. It was able to open an X-T2 RAF. APi says it is opening a RAW file, but the meta data says the image size of the RAW file is only 1920x1280. Is it really processing the RAW image or only the embedded thumbnail?

Will the new Affinity Photo for the iPad develop RAW files from a Fuji X-T1 and/or X-T2?

Having purchase On1 RAW in advance of release (albeit for a very low price) only to have the first releases turn out to be buggy betas, I appreciate it all the more that the Affinity Photo App for the iPad takes it's time to release a great product at the outset.

Thanks MEB! Actually none of my computers are for commercial use, unless you consider being retired to be a business. I'd say it's the best job I've ever had! :-)

MEB. If I upgrade to a new MacBook do I simply move the Affinity Photo app to the trash? Does that reduce the total number of installed instances of the app?

Puzzling! I have no problem opening my X-T2 files, both compressed and uncompressed. Could it be the computer/operating system? I am on an iMac running Sierra v. 10.12.1

Overall I am very pleased with the new ability to save back to a PSD in Lightroom. I couple of problems have occured that I am not sure whether they are something in my workflow, a problem with Lightroom, or Affinity Photo. 1. When I save a PSD back to Lightroom and them re-open it in AP, it adds a pixel layer that was not in the saved file. 2. I can't seem to edit the mask layers in a file that comes back from Lightroom, causing me to have to delete the old mask and re-mask from scratch. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks for the tip, but when I tried it, the results simply are not the same. The effect is very minimal.

I have been looking for a way to do something that I do frequently in Lightroom. When I have scene with a pale blue sky and light clouds, I darken the sky by reducing the luminance of the blues in Lightroom's "HSL" panel. It's often a great way to recover from not having used a polarizing filter, and sometimes even superior to the results that a circular polarizer would deliver. Additionally the same panel allows adjustments to Hue, Saturation, as well as luminance by color channel. I am sure that Affinity Photo must have a way to do this, but I am just not seeing it.

I have the Fuji X-T2. Using the Beta of 1.5.0 (RC4), I am able to open both the lossless compressed RAF and the uncompressed RAF. Trying to open the same RAFs in version 1.4.3 causes the program to crash and shut down immediately. I also have the X-M1 and X-T1. Version 1.4 has been working fine with their RAFs for quite a while.

Thank you! It actually works! Wonderful!

I keep hoping that I could use the Lightroom "Edit in" function to edit a .psd file in Affinity Photo and then save the changes back to the .psd, while retaining the layers, etc. Currently all I can do is have Lightroom create a .TIF, edit in AP and when I am done, choose "Document -> Flatten" and then File save.

Hi LilleG The Live Dust and Scratches Filter crashes for me as well, but regular Dust and Scratches Filter doesn't. I don't see a Dust and Scratches "Tool." Am I just confused or is there a separate tool?

It needs fine tuning, but I can develop Fuji files created by the X-M1 and X-T1 in Affinity Photo. Nonetheless, I still use Lightroom for my RAW processing, as it gives much better results prior to any adjustments. With LR, I can apply presets for the Fuji as I import. I have a tweaked a preset of my own that gives very pleasing, sharp results without the softness and color aberrations that I get with either the Serif Labs or Apple RAW engines.

I am still using LR 6.6, non-subscription, but with Affinity, I don't miss the enhancements that Adobe adds to LR CC but leaves out of the perpetual license version. I add my voice to the call for an Affinity DAM that will work natively with AP files and hopefully will come with a tool to import LR catalogs to facilitate migration!

I use LR 6 (the non-subscription version) with AP. This is my workflow when I want pass an image from LR to AP and back again. When I have done all the adjustments that I want to do in LR, I right-click on the image and "Edit in..." to edit a copy in AP. This sends a rendered TIFF over to AP with the LR adjustments; When I am done in AP, I select the "document" menu and "Flatten"; Then I save the image; At this point, when I go back over to LR, the flattened TIFF, with AP adjustments, shows up right next to the original RAW file. If I am done with the image in AP and never want to go back re-work the the layers and adjustments that I have made, I just close the image in AP after the "Document->Flatten" and "Save". If I think that I might want to readjust things, then I "Undo" the "Document->Flatten" in AP, which restores all the layers and adjustments and then I save them in an AP document separately. Hope this is useful so someone out there! :-) Roger

I uses AP almost exclusively now, instead of Photoshops, to handle layers, compositing, and pixel level edits that LR can't handle. I use LR as the cataloguer and raw processor. Once I have done everything I can in LR, I use the "Edit in" function in LR to work on a TIF in Affinity. I then use the Document -> Flatten menu option, followed by File -> Save and File-> Close to get the changes to show in LR. My only wish is that Affinity could use an adobe psd format to pass back to LR.

I am waiting for the compelling reason to buy the iPad Pro, and I suspect Affinity Photo will be it when the iOS version hits the street. Until then the iPad Air is good enough! My Windows PC was "good enough," until I discovered AP and realized I needed a 27" iMac 5k. :)

R C-R Sadly, my Plustek film scanner can't handle anything larger than 35mm. I started fiddling with this because relatives found old boxes of medium format negatives (120 film in various aspect ratios). That said, I have gotten some surprisingly good results photographing newer 35mm color slides. Very comparable to the scanner, much quicker and smaller file size than the scanner's huge TIFFs. You are correct, I do have to be careful not to introduce distortion from the sensor and negative not being parallel. I use a 100mm macro lens and a shoot at f/8 which seems to help. Interesting point about color shift. I have been using a speedlight as my light source. I hadn't considered how that might interact with the film. It's not a problem with the black & white negatives, but color film has its white balance baked in usually people bought "daylight" if I remember correctly. I should try filtering the speedlight and see what happens. I do use canned air, but these are old negatives so spots and scratches abound. The in-painting tool is getting a lot of use.

I haves used my dSLR to photograph b&w negatives for a while as a quick way to get good quality scans. It's so much quicker than using my film scanned and gives me a Nikon RAW file to process. Recently I was asked to scan some 64 year old medium format color negatives. The negatives are probably faded because it's hard to get realistic color back in them, They also have a lot of dust spots, which I can remove with the in-painting brush, but it it slow and tedious. Does any one have tips on restoring color negatives in Affinity Photo?

I am interested in knowing about the native format of the Affinity Photo file. Is it variant of a TIFF format? When I stitch a Panorama from RAW files in Lightroom, Adobe says that the DNG file that it creates is demosaiced raw linear RGB data. This allows me to create a pano without worrying about developing the image and then develop the pano separately. For example, this means I can apply lossless white balance changes to the pano. Does Affinity offer the same advantage?