Wilfred Hildonen

Yes, that was it! I had forgotten about those. Well, it’s almost disappointing - just as you think you have stumbled across something essentially wrong Thanks a lot for the help, though.

It wasn’t the easiest thing to find in the iPad/iCloud-universe, but I think this is it. debatteckning_.02-2020.afdesign

Thanks for responding. I went to the first drop down menu and at the bottom of that there is Defaults and from there I chose Factory Reset. The funny thing is that the grid which appears has blue lines while I set them to red when I played around with it. Anyway, here’s a screen recording. As you can see, the blue grid just appears when I try to edit some in the image. IMG_0137.MP4

The other day I wanted to show the grid and then I played around with the different grid settings, isometric and so on. Today when I started a new illustration, I can’t turn it off. I choose Grid and switch it on and off, but when I go back to the shape I’ve added, the damned grid is there again! I reset the app to factory settings, but nope - the grid persists. Any suggestions?

Thank you for the tip and I had a brief look at it and will see if it might be useful.

Yes, but not PE 10 which I had and I’m not giving Adobe more money

The problem with that is that it no longer works with macOS Catalina, since it’s 32-bit.

Thanks for the suggestions and I’ll try out Unsharp mask. Perhaps it’ll do it with a little tweaking. As for off topic: I like that - but I think Singö is in Sweden. Anyway, it’s in the same corner of the world, at least:) But I think the landscape out here differs a bit, but I can recommend it I’m rather new to the place, though.

Thanks for the suggestions and I’ll try out Unsharp mask. Perhaps it’ll do it with a little tweaking. As for off topic: I like that - but I think Singö is in Sweden. Anyway, it’s in the same corner of the world, at least:) But I think the landscape out here differs a bit, but I can recommend it I’m rather new to the place, though.

These are the kind of images I’m dealing with. I scan them in as jpegs and grayscale. I merge them in Affinity Photo and need to remove whatever grey there might be. A quick way to do that is to convert it to lineart when they are merged. Other solutions are possible but that feature was the easiest and quickest way.

Thanks a lot. Yes, that was to the point and although I haven’t read the entire thread you linked to, it was a lot of useful information there.

No, not really. It’s a bit difficult to explain but when I draw on paper and scan it in, especially if it’s larger than A4 and I need to scan it in two parts, merging them in affinity photo, sometimes I get some shadows or smudges and an easy way to remove them, would be to convert to lineart. I can do it by using select tool and delete, or even adjustment filters, but that option was a quick way to resolve it.

Thanks for the tip but it’s still not exactly what I’m after.

Yes, but i don’t have Photoshop CS6. I had Elements 10 but as of Catalina 32-bits applications are no longer supported. GIMP is of course a solution but it’s not that important to me in my current workflow and using yet another programme just adds to the confusion:) But let’s hope Serif will add it and also the tracing feature, although that’s another story. After all, we’re still on v.1 and where was photoshop then? Thanks for the suggestions anyway. Appreciated.

Yes, I have seen that, but this isn't a trace feature. It is a simple conversion from greyscale to lineart.

When I used Photoshop Elements, there was an option to convert an image from Greyscale (or a colour profile) to Lineart, which I found very handy. It was a simple way to reduce the file size and keep it purely black and white. One can gp for that with most scanners, I think. It might be called Text then, but it is the same principle, but then it would only be saved as tiff and perhaps png, not jpeg. Maybe it would be the case also if one could do it in Affinity Photo, but anyway, I found it handy, especially if the drawing I scanned in as greyscale had some shadows or smudges in it. Adjustment filters can be used it, but it is not as easy and effective as that option.

Yes, I know about that, but it isn't what I am after. First of all, a pure line art image would reduce the file size, but it would also be an easy way to keep it purely black and white without losing details. But I guess there is no such option in Affinity Photo. Neither in Designer, I think. Perhaps I should post it as a suggestion then?

When I used Photoshop Elements, there was an option to convert greyscale (or colour) to lineart which was quite useful. It seems like there is no such thing in Affinity Photo, am I right? I am not thinking of any tricks turning an image into something like a pen drawing, but just converting a scanned image (like a pen drawing) from greyscale into lineart or pure black and white.

There have been similar posts earlier, but as it seems like nothing much has happened, perhaps the topic needs a push? Anyway, it seems to be two general kind of illustrators when regard to having strokes and lines scaling with objects; the first kind is the methodical one, who prefers to build up the drawing first and adding brushes afterwards, which I guess is a natural technique developed from the early days of vector based illustration. Then you have illustrators like me, who are newer to the game and who finally learn vector through programmes like Affinity Designer on an iPad, using Pencil. It’s fast and smooth and intuitive and you can easily swap between vector and raster. That makes it very easy to draw almost like you would draw on paper. You thrown down a quick sketch in raster and continue in vector, adding quick brush strokes, varying the brushes etc. Finally, you add colours and might do some shading in raster as well. But then we have the problem with scaling with objects. For the first kind of illustrator it’s preferable that this is not on by default. For the second kind, it would be great if one could have it on by default. I think that vector illustration has developed a lot since the beginning and is still developing, thanks to the development of software and hardware. Therefore I think lots of people would have welcomed such an option in the preferences. It would have been enormously time saving.

I think I’d go for your first option. Clean and simple. If need be add another tool which can do more, but when I need to move something around, it’s just that I want to do and nothing else.

I think I might have understood what happened. After I had painted the shapes in pixel persona, I erased some parts of it with the eraser, and I guess this caused the clipping mask to “leak” if I can put it that way. Should probably have tried to use the cut- or divide-functions, but it isn’t always convenient. But perhaps I should merge or rasterise the shape with it’s clipping layer first, before using the eraser on parts of it, if need be? Or use an ordinary masking layer in order to paint away instead of erasing?

No, I’m sorry - but I have to make another illustration tomorrow using the same technique, so if it happens again, I’ll come back to you.

I checked out the file I uploaded but it doesn’t have all the parts anymore. To try to resolve it I did a lot of rasterising and merging and although I couldn’t see it being merged when the document was open in AD it seems like it has been merged now. The problematic parts were the two parts of the chain and they are completely merged now, so you cannot get the result I did.

Well, as I said I fixed it up by using the eraser so I don’t know if you will get anything out of it now, but here it is. debatteckning .03-2019.afdesign

It’s a bit complicated to explain, but I’m going back and forth between vector and pixel personae to create my illustrations. I create a shape in vector and then I go to pixel to paint on it and it works as a clipping mask, without me having to add one. Then, after having created lots of vector shapes and painting on them in pixel persona, I export it to a jpeg. But sometimes the result is that some of the painted areas no longer appear within the clipped mask, but everything becomes visible. But what is odd is that doesn’t happen with all the shapes, just some of them. But I don’t see any pattern to it, so perhaps someone have an idea as to why this happens and perhaps a way to avoid it. I fixed the actual illustration up by using the eraser, so I don’t have an example to show you. Got a deadline to keep.