carl123

What if another user makes the same mistake and subsequently logs another support post?
This forum is searchable so threads like this will help users that make the same mistake in the future, thus freeing up support staff from answering the same question over and over again
Hence threads like this are useful and should stay

It exports OK for me on Windows but does take about 10-15 minutes.
Your very Top layer (Black and White adjustment) has a Live Depth of Field Filter nested within it, switch that off or delete it
Your second layer from the bottom (Depth of Field Blur) has a Live Diffuse Filter nested within it, switch that off or delete it
When I disable those 2 filters, your file exports in a much more reasonable time for me of 20 seconds
I have attached a modified version of your file with those 2 filters disabled, see if that exports Ok for you on your Mac
PCM_0203_modified.afphoto

What if another user makes the same mistake and subsequently logs another support post?
This forum is searchable so threads like this will help users that make the same mistake in the future, thus freeing up support staff from answering the same question over and over again
Hence threads like this are useful and should stay

Starting with the document you uploaded
First delete the lower black unused layer as it is not needed,
then
Duplicate the background layer
Select both the duplicated layer and the Lighting layer and select Layer > Merge Selected
You now have two layers one without the light effect (the bottom layer) and one with. (the top layer)
Set the blend mode of the top layer to difference.  You should now see a visual representation of the tree all in black and the lighting part just shining through (as per screenshot below)
We now need to turn this visual representation into a pixel layer
Document > Flatten will do that
Now copy this pixel layer (to the clipboard) and use the Undo function to reverse the Flatten Document step we just did.
You can now delete the top layer as we no longer need it
Paste the pixel layer we just copied to the top of the layer stack
Layer > Rasterise to mask (to turn it into a mask)
Document > Flatten (again)
Edit > Copy the new pixel layer
Undo the Flatten document step we just did
Select and delete the mask layer
Edit > Paste the previously copied pixel layer
Use CTRL + I to invert that pixel layer
You should now have a pixel layer that when toggled on and off affects the light on the tree
Hopefully someone will find an easier/better way to do this as there is a lot to remember
I have attached an afphoto file with history in case I missed something
 
 

 

steps-with-history.afphoto

Can't you just use monospaced fonts?

Can't you just use monospaced fonts?

Can't you just use monospaced fonts?

Another approach would be to take a real snow image and overlay it onto your image, mask & blend it then paint in where the snow should be visible.
You will also need to take into account the roofs and other "horizontal" surfaces where the snow may be lying.
 

@ioserg

You will find that Affinity files are big, sometimes very big and sometimes inexplicably big for what they contain
Various reasons have been given for this from the Devs (and what you can try to reduce the file size) which you can find in this forum but the bottom line is that compared to what you may have used before Affinity does/can create substantially bigger project files.
So budget on using more space for your files and increased backup times as your usage of Affinity increases.
But don't rush out and purchase additional external drives or cloud storage to directly work from, as Affinity does not play totally nice with them at the moment either.

If you are going to cut out the background anyway just use a transparent backdrop in your studio, saves so much time and effort.
You should be able to pick them up in your local arts and crafts shop, but ask an assistant for help as being transparent they can be hard to find. 

https://www.on1.com/promo/0718-photo2018/?v=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuYbzv9PG3AIVq5ztCh3lnQ_eEAAYASADEgK5xPD_BwE
Offer ends tomorrow

The 1.x roadmap had no timescales but I do not think that most users would expect to still be waiting 4 years later for stuff they desperately needed on that roadmap.
What's to say it wont be another 4, 8, 12 years before those 1.x missing features are added.
I understand the reason it is taking so long (shortage of staff, bugs, new products etc) but from a marketing and professional point of view this cannot be good for Serif.
I sincerely hope the 2.x roadmap has some sort of approximated timescales attached to it.
Not sure I will be getting too overly excited about anything it contains if it doesn't

Picture 1 is what I received, picture 2 is what I made with the help of this community (I'm very thankful)
 

If you are going to cut out the background anyway just use a transparent backdrop in your studio, saves so much time and effort.
You should be able to pick them up in your local arts and crafts shop, but ask an assistant for help as being transparent they can be hard to find. 

If you are going to cut out the background anyway just use a transparent backdrop in your studio, saves so much time and effort.
You should be able to pick them up in your local arts and crafts shop, but ask an assistant for help as being transparent they can be hard to find. 

Also make sure
View > Studio > Presets is selected when in the Tone Mapping Persona
 
 

Understanding what each of the options does in the Refine dialogue can be learned via the inbuilt help or by playing with them. What is more useful is knowing when and which one to use (if any) on a particular image and as each image is different I don't think you could write a tutorial to cover all eventualities.
But if people have trouble with a particular image or selection then uploading that original image and a sample of the output they got may let people help by explaining how they would have done it, if the way they do it produces a better result.

You need to supply the original image for more relevant advice on using the Selection Brush Tool on that particular image or else you will just end up with guesswork answers and recommendations to use another tool

.

Don't use White to create a texture image brush use any other colour, then you can change it to any other colour when you use the brush
If you want the black in your png not to show make it transparent
 

Don't use White to create a texture image brush use any other colour, then you can change it to any other colour when you use the brush
If you want the black in your png not to show make it transparent
 

There are some Youtube videos for teeth whitening using affinity photo
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsfq43N42Ak
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv7o2EDve90  (part 1)
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GM_lI0o5rwY   (part 2)

I believe once you Bake your corner(s) the corners are baked in at a percentage value rather than the shown pixel value
So if you change the radius of a bigger symbol's corner, initially the smaller symbol's corners will look wrong but once you bake the corner on the bigger symbol the smaller symbol's corner will update and will look proportionately correct
Unfortunately Baking is a one time operation, you cannot go back in later to adjust the corner radius easily, so make sure the bigger symbol's corner radius is perfect before you bake it.
Hopefully the Dev Team will add a percentage setting for the Corner Tool in a later update
PS If you are just dealing with corners on rectangular shapes in your symbols, don't use the corner tool just use the shape's own  corner controls which allow both percentage and pixel values to be used.
Hope that helps

View > Studio > Layers
Make sure that is ticked
or
View > Studio > Reset Studio
To put all panels back to their default locations

View > Studio > Layers
Make sure that is ticked
or
View > Studio > Reset Studio
To put all panels back to their default locations