WhiteStone
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Posts posted by WhiteStone
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2 hours ago, RichardMH said:
Are you on a mac or windows? I'm not having that problem on Windows.
Thanks for responding Richard. I'm on a Mac, running Ventura 13.2.1. I don't believe the OS has anything to do with this, as I made some discoveries:
The problem only shows when I attempt to open .afphoto files I download from Serif. These are practice files that went along with the Affinity Photo Student Workbook that is now out of press. I was going to practice some of the lessons; as I have been feeling a bit rusty with some techniques the book had covered. When I attempt to open files that I had used for V1, they opened fine with the ability to save or save-as. Therefore, either we have a bug with reference to those particular files; or the files are not compatible with V2; which I find quite unlikely.
I can open and edit anything else. It's just weird. Plus it's not the Beta version. Just the latest version of V2 behaves the very same.
Not sure what the issue is on this one; but for instance, here is a link to one of the downloadable files: https://affin.co/mamtor. (if the link doesn't cause a download, try typing the address directly into the URL bar on your browser).
That will download a folder containing a .tiff and an afphoto file. Please try to open the .afphoto file, and see if you experience the same thing.
~Jeff
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I searched for a possible answer for this; and if I missed it, apologies all!
When I open a V1 file in V2 Beta, I get this popup:
No matter what I choose, whether Make a copy, or Continue, the file opens OK; but, I cannot save it as another file. My save commands are grayed out. Then I tried to make a copy of the original and rename it in Finder. The problem still persists since the copy is a V1 file as well. Also, I cannot export it to edit it.
Anyone have a work around for this? Is this a bug or no?
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"Not sure where you live but secondhand Designer workbooks can be found on ebay"
Thanks so much! I wonder why Serif quit printing such good publications 🧐. I live in Washington State, USA. Well, in that case I shall begin perusing the used book market. And yes, I understand there are more features in the new app; but like you suspected, I want to 'cookbook' the basics; and get some knowledge from more experienced users.
Thanks again!
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Greetings all,
I did do a search; but didn't find anything. My question is: Does Serif still print the study books for the three products? I have the Affinity Photo book, and it is nothing less than excellent! I just bought Affinity Designer, and would like to purchase the book for that as well. I just cannot find the books on the web site like I could before.
Anyone know if they're still available?
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As I was editing colors in some photos, I noticed the colored dots on the HSL tool began to change their colors on their own. Please see attached. The three blue dots should be green red and blue. MAC OS Monterey Ver 12.3.1 on M1 hardware.
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Here is another shot. Please don't look upon focus since I didn't have a negative carrier on my light table and the film had some curl 😡. Colors are still not punchy, but better as far as true. Still working on it.....
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Paul,
Yeah, I too, have been away from film for a long time; but recently decided to get back in a play around with it. As you can see, it's proving to be quite a challenge! More than I expected for sure. But I love a good challenge; and I always look to a challenge as a learning opportunity.
Again, thanks for the help! If/when I get some real repeatable answers, I'll post them here.
Cheers!
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1 minute ago, NathanC said:
This was my attempt from using a combination of a HSL adjustment to decrease the overall saturation, selective colour on red to increase cyan and curves. It is quite washed out though.
Thanks Nathan! It is close though. Paul also gave it a go as well. Results do show the pic a bit washed out; but the negative looks OK under the loupe on the light table by itself. I/we have so many variables going on here with scanning to inversion that I can't tell which step(s) contribute the most in the washed out result.
I must dig in pretty deep here and try different approaches so I can post some actual intellectual reasons for this. Reasons that may help everyone get better final results from their color negs. That; and if CineStill chemistry is just a bit off in temp and/or times. Oh well, I'm now retired; and have the time to play and research. Maybe I can find some answers that everyone can use.
Thanks again!
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Wow Paul. That's a whole lot closer to what is really in the picture than what I had! I really appreciate your effort! Would you agree with my workflow use? I figured that if I could cancel the rebate cast, I would be very close when I inverted. Obviously not; but thanks for pointing the way with the tools you used. Now I can play some more in hopes of better results.
By The Way: I did do a google search on the topic; and many people have had the bluish/cyan cast on their converted negs from CineStill chemistry. I'm not a chemist so I can only do research on a layman's level.
Cheers and thanx again!
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Greetings all,
I know the negative to positive conversion topic has been discussed ad-nauseam. But this is a bit different. Please stay with me on this one. Here are my first steps:
1. Bring in the color negative MF0226_Neg.png below
2. Sample the rebate color to remove the orange cast (MF0226_rebate) and create a fill layer filled with the rebate color. Then change the fill layer blend mode to divide which yields MF0226 Neg and Rebate below. The rebate has been neutralized leaving only a negative without the cast.
3. Then I use the Invert command from the Adjustment Layers which flip the neg to a pos (MF0226_Inverted).
NOW here is the problem: I have an overall blue cast that cannot be balanced out.
I did process this Ektar 100 film at home using CineStill chemistry. The chemistry was new and just mixed. I checked and rechecked my mixing volumes and temperatures - all OK.
Any ideas?
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Waveluke,
I visited some YouTube videos where photographers are doing exactly what you suggested: Do all RAW processing in Capture One, then edit it in Affinity Photo. The two work in perfect tandem. That is the direction I'm taking. Thanks for the advice!
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9 hours ago, Pšenda said:
Goodness! I wish I had known about that link before I asked! Thanks! Now to read and get educated on the subject. Appreciate it man.
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9 hours ago, IanSG said:
Just to address that detail - the camera isn't displaying the RAW file, it's using an embedded JPEG.
Thanks Ian. I learning a lot here.
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Wow! Thanks for the clear explanation. A lot happens there in steps. It leaves me a bit confused as to the use of standards. Isn't red just red? Meaning in RGB space R=255 G=0, B=0? Then comes the B and G all equalling 255 whilst the others equal 0? Then comes the plethora of combinations of RGB for all other colors within RGB space? I'm saying the colors have a specific scientific definition. Now I'm only asking - shouldn't the output from the camera(s) be the same? I.E. Take a photo of a calibrated red test sheet with the values of R=255, G=0, B=0. The light set for a proper exposure of F 8, 1/60th, ISO 100. Light source = 5000K calibrated measurement. I would think that all RAW processors would output the same results from any camera.
Am I wrong?
~Jeff
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15 hours ago, Waveluke said:
Different raw editors have different default looks for interpreting raw data. Looks like Capture one adds a default tone curve, whilst the Affinity Photo Raw editor does not, or is more subtle. Raw files start out as linear, undemosaiced images that look like this, a checkerboard of red, green and blue pixels from optical color filtration and raw capture on the original image sensor, also would look really dark since in linear color space, so pretty green, and pretty useless (zoom in to see checkerboard pattern)
Next we have an example of a neutral raw processor render of the image, the checkerboard pattern has been remove, it's in the proper colorspace, but, depending on the raw editor, a 'neutral' edit can look pretty flat or dark, but not as weird as an undebayered image. Some raw editors add a base contrast curve to make it look more contrasty, but here is an example processed with Rawtherapee (Free and Open source Raw editor, check it out here: http://rawtherapee.com/), that can get pretty close to "true" neutral. Still going to be background interpretations going on, in terms of gamma, and black point rendering, but still looks pretty flat.
Now for the final image, showing some basic contrast curves, sharpening, noise reduction, and slight white balance adjustments to get a more contrasty look, all done in Rawtherapee:
Bottom line is, there is a lot of subjectivity to what is 'correct', so the default image out of a raw editor is a starting point, and it is up to you to use the tools in the raw editor to get to the image you are looking for, and when you have the general look you want, you can then save as jpeg and call it good, or then save as tiff and import to Affinity Photo if raw processing in a third party editor, or continue editing in Affinity Photo after hitting the develop button in the develop button in the develop persona, to do more "photoshopy" things to the image.
Generally, I'd suggest you edit raws in Capture One instead of Affinity Photo, and export to Affinity Photo if you want to make "photoshoppy" tweaks, as the debayering algorithms used to process raw images are much more refined in programs like Capture One and Rawtherapee than in Affinity Photo. Also, be sure to save adding contrast last, so that you don't lose detail in shadows and highlights in the middle of your workflow, IE export a flat looking tiff if doing further work on a photo, do the detail work in Affinity Photo, then add contrast using levels, curves and/or LUTs at the very end through topmost adjustment layers. -
Greetings all, and Happy New Year!
I don't know if this is a bug in AP, or simply a preset adjustment that I don't know about, so I posted it here. I have noticed that RAW files direct from my Nikon D7200 (haven't used any other camera) are not as bright and lifelike as the playback on the camera; or when tethered with Capture One. I have attached two photos. The best and most accurate is from Capture One directly captured from the camera. The next one that is quite dull, at least 1 -1/3 stops under is the same photo opened by AF.
What is going on? Any comments or direction is welcome!
Regards,
Jeff
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Just stumbled across this. Great Asset!!
Thanks!
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On 2/20/2021 at 11:01 AM, walt.farrell said:
I agree. Layer > Duplicate Selection (Ctrl/Cmd+J) is probably what was intended.
I was working the same page. Experiencing the exact same issue. Then I duplicated the selection as suggested. It worked correctly.
Words matter.
Thanks Walt and everyone here.
Jeff
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1 minute ago, R C-R said:
There is no such thing as a Mac Mini with an i5 CPU & "M1 graphics." The latest Mac Mini uses Apple's proprietary M1 SoC (system on a chip) technology that integrates an 8 core CPU, an 8 core GPU, & a 16 core neural computing engine into a single chip, plus a single unified pool of very low latency RAM shared by all three processing units.
That's the way I understood it; and the way I ordered it. Thanks.
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4 hours ago, RickyO said:
"I've been a Windows person from the beginning..."
You're preaching to the choir! So have I. I am familiar with the MacOS since I have used Linux in the past. The original MacOS kernel creation was based on the Linux kernel at the time; so many of the lower commands are the same, file handling and file structures are (at least were) nearly identical.
However, I am an electrical engineer that specialized in Automation and Controls; so the software's that I used were all compiled for Windows; so I had to use Windows OS whether I wanted to or not. Having said that, I really like using Linux; and I like the iPhone and iPad OS. I'm sure the new MacOS, called Monterey, will be just as good and stable. It was the excellent stability and security of the Linux kernel that I really was impressed with.
Yes, I not only have 3.5" discs; but even one 5" floppy I found the other day whilst going through old stuff that is heading for the garbage bin. I'm keeping that for posterity sake. I don't believe my grandkids have ever seen one.
Anyhow, the Mac Mini M1 is just the ticket for me. This solves all of my problems; and its small size will really clean up my work area!
Jeff
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WOW! That is a lot of push for the i5 and i7 Intel processors. I find it just as interesting that Apple isn't pushing Intel at all regarding the new Mini M1 on their website. I haven't done much research like you have Ricky, so I'm the confused one now 😮. Hmmm.
I agree with your comment on the Thunderbolt USB.
Have you decided which way you might be going?
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9 minutes ago, RickyO said:
For both James and Jeff:
I'm confused on the cpu. BB is showing the M1 version for $700; and the i5 w/M1 for graphics at $1100.
Any input as to which you are using and comparisons?
Thanks.
Ricky, I don't know what or how James has his configured; but I ordered the $700 unit only because it had sufficient SSD space for my use. I did not research the i5, as I plan, as posted just before, to replace existing monitor(s) with new ones. When you mention i5, I'm assuming you are referring to a laptop model. Am I correct?
I was amazed at what $700 buys in that Mini M1! I am now retired, and have to watch the money much more carefully, so this option, which I did not consider until James mentioned he was using one, turned out to be just what I needed.
Sorry that this isn't much of an answer for you on my part! Hopefully James might chime in and give us much more insight and information on what he's using; and how he came to decide on it.
You said you were confused on the cpu. The way I understand it, is the M1 contains the 8 core CPU as well as the additional 8 core GPU together. The i5 is an Intel processor, so is this a desktop or laptop?
Jeff
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3 minutes ago, RickyO said:
What monitor (and other add-ons) are you using???
Thanks.
Hi Ricky. Nothing special as of yet. You see, I'm just starting out. That's why I was trying my best to keep some older gear running and producing. But alas, the technology simply outruns the hardware as we all know quite well 🙄. Try as we might...
Currently, I am using a Dell and an Acer; both 24" diagonally. Don't recall the model numbers (they were written in cuneiform, just kidding) but they will do until I can save enough dough to purchase at least one 6k or at least 4k monitor, while using one of the existing ones just for secondary internet usage while editing photos.
No other add-ons yet; but like I said, just starting. I'll be watching and learning from all of you here!!
As far as the older equipment goes, I don't know how old you are, but Ian Anderson said it best in the Jethro Tull song Locomotive Breath: "Ol' Charlie stole the handle and the train it won't stop going, no way too slow down!" Clearly, we have very little control over the mad fast pace that life carries us on!
Best,
Jeff
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On 3/3/2021 at 12:38 PM, James Ritson said:
"Using a Mac Mini M1 now and I can’t recommend it enough! The thing is basically silent and I’ve never heard the fan at all. In most situations it’s basically as fast as a MPB four times the price.."
That did it for me James! I have been nickeling and diming an older tower machine in search of better performance. As a matter of fact, I was lurking around this thread looking for yet another investment: a new video card with faster everything. Then as I followed the thread down, I saw your comment on the new Mini M1. I went to Apple's website and checked it out. That's one little monster of a machine!
Well the upshot is I just ordered one and should have it tomorrow 😄😁
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NOW, since I am a newbie, I can follow your excellent instruction videos far better than before!
Thank you Sir!
Jeff
Can't save a converted V1 to V2 Beta in Photo
in [ARCHIVE] 2.3, 2.2 & 2.1 Other New Bugs and Issues in the Betas
Posted
Thanks Walt! I wondered if that were the case 🙄. Good to know it's not a bug!
Subject closed.
~Jeff