Hi Trinity and carl123, your responses are much appreciated, thank you.
I tried to invert the mask a few times using Command I and 'Invert' from the Layer menu. The icon always remains black (and pops up black if I delete the mask and recreate it).
I added a more obvious Ripple filter so I could see more clearly what was going on. That also would not invert or produce any effect. I tried the same things on another file and everything works as advertised. And carl123: it doesn't default to being highlighted when you add the filter - I checked this in another file. So it must be some setting in my file. Is there a lock feature anywhere??
This is a large landscape photo. The only thing I have done differently is to increase the pixel density (horizontal was increased from 6000 to 10,000) in preparation for a big poster print. (I've even tried re-booting my Mac and re-loading AffinityPhoto: I'm using a 2-year-old iMac with a good spec running Big Sur.)
I could upload the file but it's a bit big and, to be honest, I'm a bit worried about posting an image online that I hope to make some money out of! Any more thoughts I could try first?