iconoclast
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Posts posted by iconoclast
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Yes, it is of course annoying that this bug still exists, but that's the current state. I only tried to offer you a workaround. And that worked for me very well - even it is of course a bit more circuitous as if it would work in AfPhoto directly. And if you have created your LUT, you can load and use it in AfPhoto as intended. The bug only concerns the export of the Master Channel to the cube file, it's not a general LUT-problem in AfPhoto.
Probably this function is not on the top list of the developers to fix it, because it is not one of those functions that are important to the majority of users. I'm sure they are busy, but a software like AfPhoto is a very complex thing.
I personally use GIMP anyway for a lot of handicraft. Even it is not really a serious substitute for AfPhoto, it has some functions that AfPhoto and other image editors doesn't offer. So GIMP - especially in combination with G'MIC - is a very good supplement.
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Could it be a problem with the mouse? I had similar problems several times during the last years. My mouse was damaged in that cases and often made double clicks if I made a single click. And if you double click on a text frame with the move tool, it will change to the text tool.
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There existed a Workbook for earlier versions of Publisher, that is very good. I purchased one shortly before Serif stopped selling it. I think it was an economic decision. Maybe you can get one somewhere. But I'm not sure if the downloadable content, that belongs to the lessons in the book, is still available. To be honest, I didn't really use it very often, because I learned layouting about 20 years ago with Quark XPress and also worked with InDesign for years, and Publisher is not so different. But I think the book is very helpful for beginners.
Edit: As I did a quick Google-search, I found at least some german versions of the book on eBay and Amazon. I think there should be some english ones somewhere too.
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On 5/11/2023 at 2:06 PM, Benfischer said:
that's all vector. It must have gotten rasterized during the export to PNG.
Of course. PNG is a raster graphics (pixels) format, not a vector format. So it is no longer vector. Export it as SVG, and it will stay vector.
I like it anyway. But as GarryP already said, you should remove the thin outlines.
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I was afraid you would say that. What about trying GIMP with G'MIC for this task, as I mentioned above. The LUTs can be used in AfPhoto and other apps too. You can edit target image with AfPhoto, export it, open the source image in GIMP, simply drag the target image on it as a second layer and then apply the filter. For me that worked pretty good.
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I already had a similar problem with the Levels Adjustment and LUTs in Affinity Photo 1, a long time ago (LUTs created from adjustment...). As far as I remember, the Master channel adjustment wasn't inherited by the LUT-Export. As an Admin told me, it was a bug. I'm not sure about it, but possibly it isn't fixed yet. I can't remember if it is the only filter that causes this problem. Possibly it will work with the Gradation Curves. But without warranty.
Edit: as an additional hint - I used to create LUTs for a long time using GIMP with the free G'MIC-Plugin, that has some filters concerning LUTs. G'MIC also exists as 8bf-Plugin for Photoshop and Affinity Photo, but it is not fully compatible with AfPhotos layer system, as I experienced. Most filters also work with AfPhoto, but a few don't, like this one. In G'MIC, there is a filter called "CLUTs from after/before Layers" in the "Colors" category, that is very useful to create LUTs from two images, loaded as layers - one in it's initial condition, one in the final condition.
Edit: and another additional hint. There is also a filter called "Color Presets" in the same category, that already contains a huge amount of very good LUTs. This filter should also work with AfPhoto, I think.
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OK, I understand that I didn't understand. 😊
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I'm not sure if I correctly understand the problem, but if you want to create a seamless pattern, there are different ways to make it - depending on the pattern you want to create. The usual way to create a seamless pattern is to cut the basic texture or image in it's vertical and horizontal middle into four pieces, so that you get four tiles. Then interchange the two tiles on top, so that their outer edges meet each other in the middle of the document. Merge that two layers to one. Then do the same steps with the two tiles at the bottom. Then interchange the top tile with the bottom tile. These steps can be substituted by using AfPhotos function "New Pattern Layer From selection " and then dragging the edges to the inside of the document.
Now that the inner edges are on the outsides and the seam is in the middle. Use the Clone Tool to retouche the seam away. If you used the "New Pattern Layer From selection " function, you will have lost the endless pattern functionality, but you can easily use this function again to get it back.
I used to create patterns in GIMP for years. GIMP has some functions that make it easier in some cases. E.G. there is a function called "seamless Tiles" (if I remember it right - in german it is called "Nahtlos kacheln"). It works pretty well in many cases, but that depends on the texture you use. You can also use the "Resynthesizer" Plugin for GIMP. That allows seamless tiling too, but more complex and often in a better way. But it needs longer to compute the pattern.
If I misunderstood the topic, simply ignore me.
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3 hours ago, BrewchaLibreBrewingCo said:
Any tips? I haven't used the mesh warp before and reasonably green when it comes to this
If you have an object, e.g. a rectangle or a label you placed as a separate layer (e.g. the label you want to wrap around the cylinder), and you activate the Mesh Warp Tool, the object will get a frame around it. You can add nodes to that frame. E.g. if you double click in the middle of the top of the frame, you will get a node there. If you drag that node, it will warp the object. Every node has handles, like Beziér Curves have. You can use them for modelling the objects too. Every node will also create an axis with an opposite node on the other side of the object. If you select both, you can drag both at the same time, to warp both sides of the object simultaneously. Just test it out and you will understand.
Those are the basics about it. For closer informations follow anto's links.
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Hi km.au!
Probably it is already open somewhere, so you don't see it pop up. Just take a look at the panels that are on screen, if you have checked "Text Styles" in "Windows".
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If you want to place the rectangles precisely, use the "Transform" panel: first click on the layer of one of the rectangles, then enter the values into the fields in the "Transform" panel.
By the way: that the rectangles are on different layers is the precondition for to be able to move the rectangles separately. You could also create rectangles by dragging rectangle selections and fill them with colour on the same layer. But in that case they would be one object and can't be moved or handled in another way (rotated, scaled...) separately.
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No problem, that's why we are here.
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12 minutes ago, jackamus said:
I'll paint on a tablet but print onto canvas!
That's not a bad idea. But it will not be the same anyway, I'm afraid. But that might be individual.
Another point is that many people out there don't respect art that was created on a computer, because they think that the computer did the most work. Even the creative work.
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I think you should be able to do that with the Mesh Warp Tool in Photo.
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18 minutes ago, jackamus said:
Hi Mark,
The only reason I asked the question about bristle types was because I've seen examples of what look like course brushes showing the brush marks. Personally I only ever use sable brushes of varying sizes.
Its very unlikely that I will want to go back to real painting even if I can't handle the painting tablet.
BTW in order to be able to operate the tablet from my computer in another room away from my Mac I have also bought a laptop Mac dedicated to the tablet! There was no wireless way of connecting the tablet to my other Mac as the distance was too great for Bluetooth.
I will take advantage of the Artrage forum and leave you in peace LOL!
But don't be surprised if you will meet markw at the ArtRage Forums too.
I think it's a very individual decision to keep the analogue painting materials or not. In my case, I still have a huge amount of colours, brushes, pens, pencils and chalks, ink, canvases, papers etc. but I haven't used it for years. And you should think of that colours dry out after a while. But I think, I will restart my analogue painting ambitions in the future, because there are still some aspects that digital painting can't satisfy. E.g. an original painting, as a unique piece of art you can hold in hands.
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I think, what you want to do (at least if you want to create seamless patterns out off existing textures) will not work in Designer, because there is no Clone Tool - even in the Pixel Persona. It will not be a problem in Affinity Photo. There is also a feature to make your patterns endless. But not in Designer.
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1 hour ago, jackamus said:
LOL Thanks for the encouraging words! What I meant was that I don't dream-up something to paint on a blank canvas. Painting a landscape from a photo is a lot different than sitting out in the open and painting what you see. There would be too many distractions for me like changing light levels and the inconvenience of carrying around all the gear. Whereas a photo near the canvas is so much easier.
There is a very nice feature in ArtRage for Preference Images: you can place them in scalable and rotatable panels, even several if you need, totally free on your screen. And if the brush comes near to them, they will disappear temporarily, so that they are not in the way. But I think, if you have closer questions about ArtRage, you should go to the ArtRage Forums, not the Affinity Forums. It's a very good forum too.
Concerning photos as references: It depends on ones worldview. I think many people have naive imaginations about art and how artists create it. Many think that artists always do it off the cuff. In fact even some of the Old Masters used tricks like glass plates to draw on, so that they could trace the silhouettes of their models on canvas. In fact, even today some famous artists trace their paintings from photos. E.g. I read an interview with the famous Fantasy Artist Boris Vallejo some time ago. He told that he makes photographs of his models and projects the photos to the canvas with a projector, where he traces the outlines to use them as sketches for his paintings. I personally always was interested in drawing and painting graphic novels. You can't paint everything, for every single panel, only from memory. Because of this, I have a big archive with preferences for many needs. And of course Google. But even with our huge opportunities of today I never find everything I need.
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Well, I think I know that, we don't need to dispute about it. If I create an image, I usually know before I start if it shall be a pixel image or a vector graphic. And I usually have reasons for this decision. If I want to have a photograph, I usually take a photo and do image editing, if I want to paint, I simply paint with a painting app, and If I want to create graphic art or something like a logo, I usually use a vector graphic software like Designer for it. I usually don't want to create photos or paintings by bending Beziér Curves. If anyone has a different workflow, that's OK for me. I also used autotracing several times and I know that there are a lot of adjustments that can be made and what they are for. I only wanted to point at the fact, that there are good reasons why pixel images AND vector graphics exist side by side, and none of both is a real substitute to the other one. You can of course try to create a vector graphic that looks like a photo, and you can create a graphical pixel image. But it can't be a mistake to know what you do and why you do it this way, because each of this two methods has it's advantages, but also disadvantages. E.G. if you trace or autotrace an image - even it is very complex - and you upscale it, you will see that there is a lack of details the more you upscale it - even in a vector graphic. And if there is a posterization (which is typical, especially after autotracing), it will become as more obvious as more as you upscale. And everything you do to smoothen away the graphic character of a vector graphic will blow up it's file size. The file size grows with the complexity of the vector graphic.
By the way, to autotrace a bitmap can't really be called "lossless". Of course, depending on the image.
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7 minutes ago, v_kyr said:
..What you tell here about tracing every single dot object then as a seperate single nodes object is inefficient and completely unnecessary for such style of textures/grunges!
Sorry, but that is not what I did. I was simply talking about a misunderstanding I often was confronted with in the past. Some people that are new to computer graphics and heard that vector graphics can be scaled lossless and have smaller file sizes than pixel images (what is theoretically true), think they can outwit the rules this way and upscale even photographs lossless and, as if that weren't enough, get smaller file sizes. I supposed that something like this might have been the reason why the OP created his grungy texture as a vector graphic. Of course I wouldn't trace every single grain of such a texture as curves. I wouldn't even try to autotrace it. That wouldn't be worth it. And, by the way, to upscale grunge lossless is a funny imagination anyway.
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An additional annotation to possibly make the problem a bit clearer: usually vector graphics result in smaller file sizes than pixel images, because they usually contain much less data - not the data of each single pixel, but only the coordinates of the nodes, angles, curvatures, colors... of the objects the image contains. But if you would vectorize each single pixel of a pixel image and save it as a vector format (SVG), you would get a much bigger file size than the pixel image. So if you have a vector image with so many tiny objects, that consist of so many nodes, you will have a huge amount of data, your computer has to deal with. That takes a lot of power and time and will create huge file sizes.
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6 minutes ago, jackamus said:
I'm just flagging-up a problem with guides and how the developers solve it is for them and for not me to make suggestions how they ought to solve it! There just needs to be a way ... how to select a stroke that is hidden under a guide.
Doesn't that work for you? In my case, if I have a stroke that is hidden under a guideline, I simply need to place the cursor on the stroke/guideline - I will get a doublearrow-cursor in that case - and then click. Because you can't select guidelines, the stroke is selected then. Then, after it is selected, I can drag it with the mouse or do with it what I want. If you have an overview what layer belongs to that stroke, you can also click on the layer instead of the stroke/guide.
But I agree, that to be able to lock/unlock single guidelines might be helpful in some cases. Inkscape has that feature. I don't use it very often, but it's good to have it. Inkscape also allows to rotate the guides around a point, that you can place yourself. That is very helpful for perspective drawing. And that makes the single-lock/unlock-feature even more helpful.
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10 minutes ago, jackamus said:
The idea of laminated screen is reduce parallax between pen tip and screen. Check out this link. https://www.xp-pen.com/forum-2511.html
Ah, that's interesting. I didn't ever notice this problem. Possibly my Cintiq has a laminated screen too. Or a somehow different solution. Don't know.
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There is one thing I'm not sure about. You mentioned "laminated screen". I know that there are foils on the market that you can put on your screen to prevent them from being scratched by the stylus. I don't know if that is what you meant with "laminated screen". But as far as I know these foils reduce the precision of drawing and painting, because of the tiny additional distance they produce between the stylus and the surface of the tablet. And the feel of friction will be different. Just what I heard, I'm not sure if it really is a problem and if that is what "laminated screen" means. My Wacom Cintiq 16 has an etched glass screen, that is very resistant against scratches, as Wacom promises. In fact I can't see any scratches on my Cintiq, since I have it. If the Cintiq 24 Pro comes with a laminated screen, I think it will be OK. But I'm personally not convinced by the foils you can apply to the screen afterwards. But I have to confess, that I'm not experienced with that.
Concerning democratic votes: I think the actual situation is not as good as it should and could be, but that is more in the responsibility of the non-democratic influences. If you compare the situations in democratic countries with the situations in their past or in other, non-democratic countries, it is obvious, that democracy brings a lot more freedom, justice, peace and even wealth to the people that live in democratic countries. At the moment there are some very loud minorities that do the best they can to discredit democracy for their own benefit. And the Internet is a very good instrument for them to spread their lies all over the world.
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5 minutes ago, Rod Corston said:
Hello Walt
Many thanks for your prompt response, and apologies for the previous misleading wording, my mistake. I’m quite new to the world of forums and unsure where I’d find the answer to that other query.
Thanks again
Rod
Hi Rod!
Usually, you should be notified about any answers to your questions by e-mail (if you activated that) and the small bell symbol on top right of the forum site. If you click the bell, it should show you where you find the answers. You can also view your last activities on the forum site, by clicking on the icon of your profile, on top right of the forum site too.
How to add a dimension line
in Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
I'm not sure if I correctly understand the topic, but could a screenruler be a workround? There are some small apps on the market that offer such an option. E.g. "PicPick" - even the free version (that also exists as portable app).
Edit: Of course, the screen ruler will not zoom and move with your image, because it's an external software.