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Posts posted by iconoclast
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For me, the lighting looks a bit confusing. Bedause there is a light on the face of the child, that comes from the front rigth, while the face of the mother - and even her arm and the teddy - has a shadow on that side. The same with the linen behind the child. And the childs face has a very dark shadow on the left side (from our perspective). You inserted the child there, right? If nobody perceives it, it might be OK.
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That will not be easy, I think, because the forehead and parts of the hair of the man (and even on the face and neck of the woman and in the background) on the photo are so overexposed that there is just a white area with no details and colour informations in it that could be restored by darkening this area. I'm afraid the only way to manage that is to retouch it by hand. That means by repainting that area.
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29 minutes ago, Bololoco said:
...Is this because i'm using a trial version?
No. It's the same for example with GIMPs XCF-file-format. Most image editing apps have their own native file format that gives the user the option to save the document with all the content he uses while he is working on it: guidelines, selections, layers, masks etc. That's why there is a difference between Save and Export. "Save" is for what I described, "Export" is meant to save your work as a final result. Exported documents usually can't contain guidelined, selections etc.., but sometimes they are able to save even layers.
Image Viewers usually can't read this native file formats except they have plugins for it. E.g. for IrfanView, you can download a plugin to make GIMPs XCF-files readable in IrfanView. Photoshops PSD-format may be an exception to this rule, because Photoshop is the market leader.
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If the mouse has sharp enough teeth... 😄
OK, your right, in that case probably the fingers or the stylus will do the job. Right?
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Select the Move tool. Click on the Text layer in the Layers panel, so that it is active and highlighted. Drag the Text with the mouse. Alternatively you could also move the text precisely to certain coordinates by entering the values in the fields of the Transform panel.
To prevent the map from being moved accidentially, you can lock it. Click on the Layer of the Background and then on the Lock-symbol on the top right of the Layers panel (if I remember it well).
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Just now, walt.farrell said:
Available only for Windows users, if I remember correctly.
Yes, I always forget to say that. Sorry!
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Hi!
The free G'MIC-Plugin has a Camouflage-Filter in its Pattern category. There are also about 560 or so other filters, so you can manipulate the pattern afterwards if it is not good enough for your needs.
- jaltadonna and Brian_J
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I'm not sure if I understand what you want, but you can add adjustment layers to single layers and also to the group they are in. So you can adjust the single layers separately and also the group they are placed in. I can't imagine another, easier way at the moment.
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Just for the case that is not clear to you: There are two important values for printing: the resolution/size of the image in pixels and the relative resolution in Pixels per Inch (PPI or DPI). The relative resolution for print should usually be ppi/dpi. You can change the relative resolution by resizing the document without Resampling. In that case, the amount of pixels of the image will not change. But if the image has not enough pixels, you will possibly not get the image size in centimeters you want or need for printing. For this you would need to resize the image with activated Resampling. But in that case the amount of pixels will change and that will affect the quality of the image. That's simply physics. Think of that pixels are only tiny squares that contain only one colour per pixel. So a pixel image is in fact a kind of mosaic.
The most images you can download from the internet are too small for printing, and it is not recommendable to increase them to a print size, because they will get a bad quality this way in the most cases. Also think of that printing is expensive and irreversible. So if you want to print something, take care that it has a good enough quality and a size that is big enough, right from the start.
I'm not sure if this helps for this certain case. But, by the way, if it is a Getty Image, you should remove the file from this forum, to prevent legal trouble.
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Did you also try to apply the HSL-filter to a group with that several objects or groups of objects in it?
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Simply place the image as a separate layer and then drag it's layer onto the text layer in the layers panel to nest it in that layer. I'm not sure at the moment if you should drag it to the thumb nail or to the right side of the layer. Just test it.
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Wacom tablets and equipments are relative expensive in general, as far as I see. I purchased mine from a special offer. But Wacom has some advantages. As far as I know their tablets support the most hard- and softwares, even Linux and open source apps.
And yes, I already heard about Wacom Mobile tablets. I simply forgot. I can't say if they are recommendable.
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As I noticed during the last days, the start up times seem to vary. As I tested it on the 20th (see above), it took between 17 and 21 seconds for each app. But in the last days it sometimes took much more. I can't see a cause for it.
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Or do you mean a mobile graphic tablet like an iPad? As far as I know, Wacom doesn't offer something like that. I personally have a Cintiq 16, so a graphic tablet with display, that needs to be connected to a computer. Wacom offers additional content to make it wireless, but I don't have that and can't say anything about it. But the Cintiq 16 is very good for it's price. I don't know the Wacom One. It is much cheaper, but I'm afraid possibly the screen will become scratched after a while. My Cintiq has a scratch resistant surface. I think it is better to think about such things before you buy a tablet.
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1 hour ago, zea said:
Thanks,
I understand that part. I was able to convert to Curves, but I still can't create actual font curves using Pencil Tool, like she did using Ai. Am I missing something?
Thank you,
Cheers!
I think, that will not work exactly the same way as in Illustrator. But you can create separate curve objects and then subtract or add them to the single characters, using boolean operations ("Geometry"), and you will get similar results. You can do that with the pencil tool too, if you want, and it will only take one additional step each time: the boolean operation to add or subtract the objects to each other.
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I just tested it on my Dell XPS 8930 with i7, 8 GB RAM, Nvidia GTX 1060 (6GB RAM), and the start of each app needed 17-20 seconds. But I remember that the first starts after the update took much longer. I suppose that could have been caused by some new features, that must be registered first. But I can't judge it in your case.
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I'm not sure about that, but I have a similar impression. The apps start a bit slower than the former versions. Most of all I noticed that a problem, I already had with Photo's Brush Editor in the last version, became much worse in some cases. Sometimes, if I changed something in the Brush Editor in the last version, it took very much time to compute the changes and the app was greyed out during that time. Now in some cases the app freezes and I have to shut it down. But that happens not so often. I'm still investigating this problem. Possibly I only have installed too many brushes and other stuff.
I'm on Windows 10.
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8 hours ago, None2321 said:
There are a lot of tools out there for gif creation and simple image animation, but it is advantageous to be able to perform all our tasks within the one app, and as an alternative to Photoshop, which is the main reason many people took up Affinity Photo, one would expect Affinity to have the same functionality. Disappointing that it doesn’t, and will seek alternative options when it is time to upgrade to a new version.
It would of course be nice if that could be done in AfPhoto too, but I don't think that it has a bigger priority to the majority of users. Serif is not such a big company as Adobe, which built it's market position over decades. So they have to make clever economic decisions to stay alive. Even because GIF-animations are a bit outdated since there are other animation formats like PNG-, SVG- and WebP-Animations that have a better quality (e.g. more than 256 colours).
I think the most users will be interested in to be able to edit photos and paintings in a high quality, and Serif should focus on this first. All those special interest things would of course be nice, but not that important. Even because there are in fact many apps out there for tasks like that. You can e.g. create very good GIF-animations with GIMP and Krita, for free.
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The Vector Flood Fill Tool is just for easy recoloring segments, the other one is to make easy boolean operations with segments. That's at least how I understand it.
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1 hour ago, Old Bruce said:
Pixel perfect work uses a 1 pixel grid. People designing icons. It is useful for Snapping to.
OK, you're possibly right (I was afraid of that there might be at least one good reason), but that's a minority of users, isn't it? Should a default setting be made for such a minority of users? While many others seem to suffer?
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@ lepr
OK, I think it is not a problem that the Automatic Grid is a pixel-grid. The question is: Why is it a 1-pixel-grid? A pixel-grid may make sense, but who will need a 1-pixel-grid and for what? Pixels are in fact already a grid. Why should anyone mark the edges of the single pixels with grid lines?
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I think, good solutions would be if everyone could create his own basic grid and set it to default or if Photo would remember the grid one used last, as other apps do. I don't use grids very often in Photo, but I think a 1x1 pixel grid doesn't make much sense. I suppose that happened by accident. On the other hand, it is not too heavy to simply choose a preset or even create a grid after creating a new document. So it is nothing at least I really suffer about. It was only a little bit confusing initially.
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Try it with a bigger brush. The strength of the blur effect depends on the size of the brush in relation to the pixels.
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Another workaround could possibly be to use Assets. Some time ago someone uploaded some Assets for measurements here on this forums to the Ressources section. Maybe you can find it there (or create your own). They can be simply dragged from the Assets panel, placed where and at what size you need it. And you can read the values in the "Transform" panel if the measure lines are selected.

Completing my fanfiction composite - Working with Inpainting
in Share your work
Posted
But what was on that image before you replaced the boy? And how was it lighted?
The lighting is one of the most important things in image compositing. If the lighting of the images you assemble together, doesn't match, it will always look strange, even the viewers often can't exactly put the finger on what ist wrong. It's somehow similar to assemble images with different perspectives. That would look strange too. It is often difficult to find the right images you need for that. And it is even more difficult to adapt images with a wrong lighting angle to another one.
As I heard some time ago, Artificial Intelligence can do such things. Photoshop or a plugin for Photoshop can eventually do it. But I'm not sure about that. Think of, that the whole lights and shadows of the image fragment you insert, must be replaced, so that would mean, that you would need to overpaint the main parts of the image. You must be very experienced in perspective and lighting for that, to create a persuasive illusion. And in painting too. For that, in fact a graphics tablet would be helpful. But it will not do the whole job.
In my experience, the best way to do such things ist to find images that fit to each other.