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iconoclast

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Posts posted by iconoclast

  1. Instead of making a photograph of a book, you could even create a rectangle and apply a gradient to it (from some kind of light grey over white or a lighter grey, to light, but a little darker, grey again). Please note, on one side of the gradient, I made a small light (red arrow). This is one side of your book with a simulated lighting. Then you press Ctrl+J to duplicate this rectangle once. After that you move it horizontal, just about a mm. Then you can press Ctrl+J repeatedly and you will get a stack of book sides. Group that stack and repeat the same procedure with the other side of the book.

    You should play a little with the gradient to let the lighting look a little more realsitic than in my sample. It is just a quick example.

    Book.jpg.7e5dc11ea1c85f4a8de12ba798983c13.jpg

  2. 16 minutes ago, Joachim_L said:

    Also possible, but not if you have a spleen like me wanting to keep it compact and clean. Another rectangle means another item in the Layers panel. ;)

    Of course. I have absolutely no spleens. Not even one. 😄 Yes, it would cause one more item in the layers panel. But you could group it with the textframe. And I think it's a little bit more flexible to handle.

  3. 1 hour ago, Nita Reed said:

    Awesome...THANK YOU!

    But I would suggest to assure yourself by asking Pixel Bhudda anyway, because they emphasize that the package is made for Adobe Illustrator. We had, for example, a thread here in this forum today, about an AI (Adobe Illustrator) file, that wasn't supported by Affinity Designer before it was converted to make it usable. And the conversion had to be made in Illustrator.

  4. 1 hour ago, PaulEC said:

    AFAIK there is no such thing as "remove black background", are you sure you're not actually using "Remove black matte" ? (Although I don't know why that would turn the layer dark blue!)...

    Yes, I think you're right. The english designations for those options are "remove white matte" and "remove black matte". I'm german and in fact the german designations for these are "Weißen Hintergrund entfernen" und "Schwarzen Hintergrund entfernen". And the accurate translation for this is "Remove white/black background". Since I am in this forum, I'm permanently switching the preferences between german and english language to look how the options are correctly named. But in this case I didn't. Sorry!

    "Erase white paper" ("Weiße Bildanteile entfernen" in german) works perfekt. Thanks for that hint!

  5. OK, I opened the EPS, and it works the way I said: fold out the layer groups and click on one layer after another. You will then see what vectors doesn't show any information except that they are selected. Go to the brushes panel and choose one with a fitting thickness. Just click on it while the invisble vector is selected. So it should become visble. Do it with every invisible vector.

    This will be a lot of work, but I don't know an easier way.

    Edit: @Joachim_L: That's cool. As I opened the AI in Designer, it was just one layer with absolutely no content.

  6. 12 minutes ago, BeccaT said:

    Hello,

    I have been given 2 files with the same information in - one is an ESP and the other is an AI. When I open them (in Publisher and Designer) I can see some of their content, but not all of it. I know there is more content than I can see because when I export the files as a PDF I can see more information. Please advise what I should check so that I can see all the content.

    I have attached two screen shots so you can see how the file displays when I open it in Affinity, and the PDF file that I have exported

    I hope you can help!

    392145259_Screenshot2021-04-14at19_36_47.png.b0603d2ecfc19f0667948ca5de1a431f.png

    2093737825_Screenshot2021-04-14at19_36_38.png.2e8f1297fa577aee5ae283d39ee50e01.png

    With "ESP", I think, You mean EPS (encapsulated postscript), right? My suggestion is, that those strokes that are visible on your second screenshot, are drawn in Illustrator with brushes that Designer doesn't support. But I'm not really sure. Anyway, the vector data of those strokes must be there, I think. So there must be layers with invisible content. If you test the single layers just by clicking on each after another, you should see that there are those vectors without strokes. In that case you should be able to give each vector a stroke. Not sure if this will work, but would be worth a try, I think.

  7. 3 minutes ago, iconoclast said:

    To save the image as AfPhoto file, you shouldn't export it, but Save it (Ctrl+S). AfPhoto is the house format of Affinity Photo (PSD is the house format of Photoshop), the format you can save all layers, selections, guidelines, curves and many other things with it. It is the file format you should save your projects your working on with. And you should do that regularly while you work, so that you don't need to begin from the start if your program or the computer crashes. If all work is done and you are happy with your result, you should export it in a suitable file format. A good one is JPEG. JPEG allows a verry efficient data compression, so that you can get verry small file sizes. But the cost of this compression is a loss of quality. You have always to decide what is more important: quality or file size. For images that shall be published in the internet, a moderat file size is important. So you should compress a little more (not lower than 60%). For art printing I wouldn't compress too much (near 100%).

    If you isolated an image object or your image contains transparent areas, you should export as PNG, because PNG supports the alpha channel which is needed for transparencies. PNG offers lossless compression.

    For professional print, the TIFF is the best choice. With LZW it also offers a lossless compression. But the file size will be relativly big anyway.

    These are the most important file types.

    Hope I nearly found the right vocabulary for everything. My english isn't the best.

     

     

     

  8. 4 hours ago, Affinity iPad Student said:

    I do not see .afphoto option in export file types. do i type it in?

     

    To save the image as AfPhoto file, you shouldn't export it, but Save it (Ctrl+S). AfPhoto is the house format of Affinity Photo (PSD is the house format of Photoshop), the format you can save all layers, selections, guidelines, curves and many other things with it. It is the file format you should save your projects your working on with. And you should do that regularly while you work, so that you don't need to begin from the start if your program or the computer crashes. If all work is done and you are happy with your result, you should export it in a suitable file format. A good one is JPEG. JPEG allows a verry efficient data compression, so that you can get verry small file sizes. But the cost of this compression is a loss of quality. You have always to decide what is more important: quality or file size. For images that shall be published in the internet, a moderat file size is important. So you should compress a little more (not lower than 60%). For art printing I wouldn't compress too much (near 100%).

    If you isolated an image object or your image contains transparent areas, you should export as PNG, because PNG supports the alpha channel which is needed for transparencies. PNG offers lossless compression.

    For professional print, the TIFF is the best choice. With LZW it also offers a lossless compression.

    These are the most important file types.

    Hope I nearly found the right vocabulary for everything. My english isn't the best.

     

     

  9. 11 hours ago, FredVN said:

    ...I hope the how and why of my method is now clear. The final product determines the tool and the method. Not the other way around. Don't choose AP because you have so many options that you won't use for the end product in question anyway.

    As I said, if it works for you, it is absolutely OK. If you only want to write a text, Word would be a really good choice to do that. But if you want to load a text with formatings you did in Word to do the final editings in Publisher, possibly even to change something in the text and/or to ad images and graphics, it is not a good idea. Because it will cause more work as if you had did the whole formating in Publisher. For professional DTP, a well structured workflow is verry important, because time is money, printing is expensive and messy printing is irreversible.

  10. This doesn't work for me to. Don't know why, didn't use it before.

    You could even try the blend ranges (the small gear symbol on top of the layers panel). Just drag down the right point of the left curve). But it will blend out all light areas in your image, depending on how you are dragging the curve. So also the lights on the objects will become transparent.

    The better way would be to isolate the objects by dragging a selection around the objects. For example with the Selection Brush Tool. And after that you should refine the selection (button in the Context bar and paint over the edges of the objects to clean the mask).  Finally you should create a mask layer (second button on the left bottom af the layers panel).

  11. 28 minutes ago, jamesgangcreative said:

    Don't know why people are thinking I'm asking about editing a PDF...

    As I said, I didin't really understand what you want to do. Even because what you want to do is a little bit, let me say, extravagant. I never heard that someone made a layout in Word to load it into a layout program, only to add pagination... To be honest, this sounds to me a little like to knock in a nail by using a screwdriver. There are no better programs on the market for doing layout than layout programs. Not even Word. And especially Publisher with its amazing amount of functionality will give you much better opportunities to create a professional layout than Word. That is the explanation for my reaction. But it is of course your choice, how to do this. And if it works for you, it is absolutely OK.

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