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Everything posted by iconoclast
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So I think you want to first archive your photos. In that case I would choose the JPEG - unless you have transparencies on the images. For example if you have released image objects to archive them for collages you eventually want to create in the future. In that case I use to export them as PNGs. All other images I archive as JPEGs. In case of JPEGs you always have to weigh if the quality is more important than the file size. To publish the images in the web or to send them per mail, you can comprimate the certain images anytime once again. If you don't really know for what you will use them in the future eventually, you shouldn't comprimate them too much. I usually never comprimate in such cases with less than 90%. JPEG comprimation summarizes similar colours to the same colour (colour reduction), so that there emerge clusters of colours on the image. The more (and the more often) you comprimate, the more this so called Artifacts will become visible. So better be carefull!
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It almost depends on what you want to do with that image. For example for professional printing the TIFF would be the best choice. But it will prduce the biggest file sizes, even if you use the lossless LZW comprimation. For the web, JPEG and PNG are good choices. Especially JPEG, because you can reduce the file size with the comprimation. But you should always have a look at the quality. To archive images, also JPEG is a good choice. But if you possibly want to use the images for more sophisticated projects with high quality, you shouldn't reduce the quality too much. In case of the JPEG also have a look at the Resampling (Interpolation). There are five different resampling festures. The ones at the bottom of the list create the best results in most cases.
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If you want to save your work to work on it later again, you should always use Affinitys own file format *.afphoto, because it is the only one that saves layers, guides, selections... and if you want even the history with it. And the quality will stay the same. If you want to save an image with transparencies to archive it for later use (for example to insert it into another image), so you shouldn't export it as JPEG, because it doesn't support the Alpha Channel which is needed for transparencies. PNG or TIFF would be possible. PNG will create smaller file sizes. Edit: And PNG and TIFF offer lossless data comprimation. JPEG comprimation makes smaller files the more you drag the Quality slider to the left, but the quality will become worse. With 100% the quality will stay the same, but the file size will be relatuve big. So you have to decide what is more important for you. I never use less than 60%. For printing normally between 80% and 100%
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Hi Alon! To have only the outline of an object, you have to set the Fill to zero. To do so, open the Fill menu on the left of the context bar (the object must be selected for it) and click on the struck through circle button on the top right of the menu panel. In the Stroke Style menu on the right of the Fill menu or in the Studio panel with the same name, there is an option "Scale with object". This should be unchecked for your needs, if you don't want that the outline width changes if you scale the object.
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On the second Screenshot (pureref to Poto), there are two visible layers with your drawing in the layers panel. The preview images on those layers both seem to have a black background. But the image seems to show parts of the drawing with a transparent background in the corner on the left bottom of the image. What does it look like if you make the top layer invisible? Edit: One idea: Have you tried another file format? For example PNG or TIFF (both support transparencies)? PSD is the native format of Photoshop files, and as far as I remember Photo doesn't support all features of PSD. But I may be wrong.
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You can change the behaviour of the ends of a curve in the Stroke panel ("Kontur" auf Deutsch). There are three options for the behaviour of the endings ("Cap"/"Ende"), right below the slider for the Width ("Breite") of the stroke. Possibly you can solve your problem by checking them out.
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Yes, there are different options. The third entry is "New Layer". If you click it, you will get an empty layer, you can fill with the Flood Fill Tool or the Gradient Tool, and you can also paint on this layer. This is the same as you would get if you only click on the button "Add Pixel Layer" at the bottom of the Layers Panel (the second from the right). But if you have already adusted the colour you want in the colour picker, you could also just click "New Fill Layer". This one will automatically be filled with the selected colour. Just check this options out a bit. It is not really so complicated. And I really suggest to also take a look at the Help files. And there are also many excellent video tutorials on Youtube. And, of course, you can also ask your questions in this forum if you get stuck.
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It's not really clear to me what want you want to do. As far as I understood, you wanted to replace the background of one image with another image, Or do you want to set only a colour as background? That would be easy. Just create a new layer below the masked one and fill it with a colour by using the "Flood Fill Tool" (the eighth one in the toolbar). Or if you want a gradient, use the "Gradient Tool" (below the Flood Fill Tool).
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The "Alpha Channel Colour" is transparency. Channels are somehow like coloured, dimmable spotlights that are focused on the same point. You have a red, a green and a blue one. If all three spotlights are set to zero, you have true black. If all three spotlights are pushed to the max, you have white. If only the red one is pushed to the max, you have pure red. If red and green are pushed to the max, you have yellow. And so on. You can mix all colours with it. The Alpha Channel is only an additional channel for mixing transparencies to it all. So you could also call this channel the "Opacity channel". Transparency should be displayed if you activated it in the Document menu - "Transparent Background" - after you created the layer mask.
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That is an opportunity. But if you don't overwrite the original source image, you will always be able to open it from disc again. In Affinity Photo, you should always save your images as afphoto files. In this case the source image will not be overwritten and you can save for example layers, guides, selections... with it. If your ready with your image, you should export it as JPEG, PNG, TIFF or others, depending what you want to use your image for. If there shall be still transparencies in the image, don't use JPEG, because it doesn't support the Alpha Channel. In this case PNG or even TIFF would be a good choice.
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There are different ways. To see how the image looked like in the beginning, you can open the source image. By the way, you should never overwite the source image, even nearly everything you do in Affinity Photo is nondestructive. You could also create a duplicate of the image when you start working, and make it invisible. In that case you can always make it visible again and then you can see how it looked in the beginning. You can also go back to the start in the History panel. But be careful, because if you do that and you only click on the image, all working steps you did will be lost.
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The layers are stacked over each other in the Layers Panel. You just need to drag the layer you want to have as background with the mouse down, so that it is placed under the layer with the mask. Edit: There is one thing I forgot to mention. Images need a so called Alpha Channel for transparencies. Normally they only have three channels: red, green and blue (RGB). For transparencies they need the additional fourth channel (RGBA). If you didn't choose Transparent Background as you created the new document, you have to open the menu Document and click on Transparent Background to get this Alpha Channel.
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The Selection Brush is the fourth tool in the Tool bar on the left of the interface. The one with a brush symbol and a dashed circle. If you have created the selection, just click on the button Mask Layer at the bottom of the Layers Panel. It is the button with a circle in a rectangle. After doing so, all of the layer outside the selection should become invisble. Because th background of the layer is invisible now, you can place any image you want on a layer below the masked layer as a background. Here are some Videos on Youtube: How to use the Selection Brush Mask Layers Mask Layers2
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There are different ways to do that. It depends on how much the subject differs to the background, which technic you should use. A verry good way to liberate such a subject from the background is to use the Selection Brush Tool to create a selection of the subject (paint inside the subject, near its edge, with it), and after that create a layer mask from the selection. Then you have the subject liberated from the background nondestructive. That means that you can redo and/or correct this liberation whenver you want later on, without any loss. The layer mask is in fact just a greyscale image that is attached to the layer. The dark pixels of this mask make the layer transparent, the lighter pixels make it opaque. So you can paint with a brush on that mask to manipulate it. With black, to paint transparent; with white, to make transparent pixels opaque again. And you can use all brushes and all brush settings you want for that. Edit: After you used the Selection Brush, you should click on the button Refine in the Context Bar. Then you get a special brush to refine the selection as a mask and a Refine Selection panel in which you can make the settings for this brush. With the brush, you can refine the edge of the selection. After this, the maks wil be replaced by a finer selection.
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It's not unusual that you have to contact the trader, where you bought whatever you bought, and not the facturer. It is f.e. the same with shoes or consumer electronics and most other things, because the facturer sold the stuff to the trader to resell it. So unfortunately your contact partner has to be the Apple Store, not Serif. I'm in an almost similar situation, because I bought two of the Affinity softwares at the Microsoft Store. Today I'm not glad with that decission. But it's too late to change it.
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Ein Passepartout würde ich aber anders erstellen. Dabei geht es doch eigentlich darum, dass um ein Bild herum ein weißer Rand, also quasi ein Rahmen, läuft. Dafür bräuchtest Du eigentlich nur eine rein weiße Hintergrundebene und die Bildebene. Dann erstellst Du Deine elliptische Auswahl die den Teil des Bildes umschließt, der gezeigt werden soll. Dann klickst Du bei aktiver Bildebene auf den Button "Maskierungsebene" unten im Ebenenpanel. Dann solltest Du ein Bild mit weißem Rand haben. Und das sogar nondestruktiv, was bedeutet, dass Du es (das Passepartout) auch im Laufe der späteren Weiterbearbeitung noch ändern oder auch wieder entfernen kannst, ohne das Protokoll bemühen zu müssen und damit Arbeitsschritte rückgängig zu machen. Edit: Du kannst die Maskierungsebene, die an die Bildebene geknüpft wird, übrigens auch mit der Maus im Ebenen-Panel über die Bildebene ziehen. Wenn Du dann die Bildebene aktivierst kannst Du sie bequemer innerhalb des Passepartouts verschieben. Vorher die Auswahl aufheben, nicht vergessen.
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For perspective drawing, you could also create a scaffold with pathes first (horizon, vanishing points and perspective construction lines), reduce them to one layer and lock them. Then you can draw along the construction lines or create rectangles and other figures and adapt them to the scaffold by dragging their nodes. Not verry convenient (Inkscape has at least rotatable guidelines for such things), but it would work. Possibly easier than the perspective tools of some programs, that are - in my opinion - sometimes so unwieldy, that it drives you crazy.
