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iconoclast

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Everything posted by iconoclast

  1. That's what I found out too. The confusing thing is that if you try to change this setting with the Placement Policy, the History annotates that every time you do it, even nothing really happens. I understand that iotems in the File menu are meant for files to be opened. That makes sense. But that steps, that don't have any effect, are annotated in the history doesn't make sense and confuses.
  2. Yes, and it only does this the way you defined it before you opened/placed the image, as far as I can see. Even the History displays changes you did with the Placement Policy, they are not really done, as you can see in the Ressource Manager. That is a little bit confusing, and I'm not sure that it's the way it is meant to be. If you want to change "Embedded"/"Linked" after the image is already loaded, you have to do it it in the Ressource Manager. The Placement Policy doesn't do it. At least for me.
  3. I may misunderstand the "Embedded"/"Linked" option in the "Placement Policy", but it doesn't seem to have any effect. I tested changing it, and the history annotates those steps, but the Ressource Manager doesn't display any changes. I suppose it is a bug. But I have to test it a little more.
  4. By the way, I'm on Windows. Don't know if that is important in this case, but to be safe. The "Clip Canvas" option has nothing to do with getting the placed image as an "Image" layer. As you can see in your video, it is an "Image" layer even before you clipped it. I think the important option for this should normally be the "Placement Policy". But however if you drag an image into the empty workspace of AFPhoto or to the top of the UI, it will be opened as a pixel (rastered) image, if you drag it into an opened image, it will be an Image layer. Think that is what you mean, right. But I can't see what the "Placement Policy" does. Doesn't seem to have any effect.
  5. Yes, I know, but if you want to have your image placed as an "Image", you have to set the "Placement Policy" to "Linked, not to "Embedded". That is the option that decides how your image will be placed. And that doesn't seem to work as it should.
  6. As far as I understand, the difference between an "Image" and a "Pixel" layer is that the "Image" layer is only linked, while the Pixel layer is embedded in the document. So to manipulate the "Image" layer (destructive), you have to convert it into a "Pixel" layer.
  7. The "Clip Canvas" option is cool. Something I badly missed in the past. Thanks for the hint! But that the image gets placed as "Image" - no matter what "Placement Policy" you chose - seems to be a bug, doesn't it?
  8. You can find the Place option in the menu "Placement Policy" under the "Place" entry (menu "File"). Choose "Linked" to place it as an image. If "Linked" is chosen, you can also open an image by drag&drop from the file manager into Affinity Photo. For both methods, you need to create a new document first to place the image on.
  9. Could the problem possibly be caused by the hyperlink on the masterpage. This older thread seems to suggest that this doesn't work perfectly. At least on Mac.
  10. You could try "Unsharp Mask". It's a filter that also exists as Live Filter. And you could also take a look at the free G'MIC plugin (more than 500 additional filters), at least if you are on Windows. It has some verry good filters for sharpening in its category "Details". Zoom your image to 100% for the best impressions of the sharpening effect.
  11. You could even try the filter "Recolour". But you have to play with the "Lightness", because pure white can't be recoloured. There are smooth shades in this logo, as you will see (if you are not aware of it) if you play with the Lightness. If you don't want to have this shades, you should recolour the logo with the Fill Tool anyway. By the way, such graphic things like logos can be created in better quality with vector graphics programs like Affinity Designer. You will get much sharper edges - not pixelated - and the graphics can be scaled to every size you want, without any loss of quality. Edit: As I noticed a minute ago, the shades are caused by the mask layers. So you only need to make those layers invisible to get rid of this shades. Or, if you want to keep them, recolour only the "<Path> + <Path> + <Path> + <Path> + <Path> + <Path>(Pixel)" layer.
  12. I think you should unpack all Groups first. Then merge the blue layers to one layer (Geometry: Add), the red layers to one, the black ones to one and the white ones to one, so you have four layers; Black, White, Blue and Red (from top to bottom.
  13. Sorry, seems that I was wrong, as far as I see there are no pixel layers, but curves. I think you have to merge the curve layers of the different colours to one each colour: one layer for all blue curves, one for all red ones and one for the black ones. And even one for the white ones. Then you have to subtract the white curves form the blue ones. Finally you should only have three layers, I think: blue, red and black. But I have to confess that I am not experienced with Cricut.
  14. As far as I understand it's a pixel layer. You can't autotrace bitmaps in Designer ( I think you know that). In Designer you could only vectorize the graphic by hand, drawing curves. But there are other Apps that can do it automaticaly. The free Inkscape for example has the feature "Trace Bitmap" in its "Path" menu. That works pretty good. Even separated by colours.
  15. That's what I meant. Possibly the point is that the vertical line is no "on-screen design aid" (which are blue lines). There is another thing that confuses me: I don't know if that works on Mac, but on Windows there isn't a "Toggle Full Screen" entry in the "Window" menu.
  16. I think, what this vertical line is and what it is for, is clear to everyone. The question is if there should be an opportunity to get rid of it for a clean preview. For me it is not really important. But others may have a different point of view.
  17. The copyright situation would only be important if you want to publish your redrawn image or the original - which you already did here. Uderzo was famous for being verry fussy with his copyrights. He sued many people who harmed it. And that can become verry expensive. So never publish Artwork of other people - even in forums like this - without permission of the copyright owners.
  18. Only the Solid Brushes in Designer draw true vector strokes. You will see that if you try to expand a brushstroke ("Layer" menu, "Expand Stroke") of a Textured Intensity Brush or a Textured Image Brush. The last two kinds of brushes only create strokes that consist of pixels aligned to a curve (vector).
  19. If the center point of your shadow-gradient is black with 45% opacity, the line will be invisible.
  20. Ah yes, I didn't think of that Photosketcher might not exist for Mac. Sorry! It has at least two or three different Watercolour filters that work pretty nice. But it is long ago since I used it the last time. Even to look how it creates the paintings is verry interesting. It does this stroke by stroke. And you can apply different canvas textures, brushes and frames to your image. Watercolour Studio looks interesting too. Hope it is not too expensive. In my opinion also G'MIC's Watercolour filter does a fine job. Better than the filter in Photoshop, I think. It has a lot of adjustments to modify the result. G'MIC generally is really cool. I used it many years in GIMP, and since a short time also in Photo, since an .8bf-version of the plugin exists.
  21. The Photoshop filter for the watercolour effect often didn't look verry realistic for me. But it depended strongly on the photo I applied it to. I prefered to simulate the watercolour effect with a combination of filters like Gaußian Blur and Diffuse, and an additional Contour filter on a duplicate of the layer. I also used Blend Modes. You could also look for a plugin for artistic effects. The free G'MIC plugin (more than 500 additional filters) for example has a filter called "Dreamy Watercolour" (you find it if you enter it into the Search field) and many other artistic effects in its "Artistic" section. I attached a quick sample I made with "Dreamy Watercolour" at the bottom. An interesting freeware for artistic effects is Photosketcher. It is a small App that is specialized on artistic effects (watercolour, oils, pastels, pencil...) and does a pretty nice job.
  22. Hi ra.skill! As far as I understand, you want to make holes in your figure with the texture. This will not work with the Geometry functions because the texture doesn't really consist of vectors. You can try using a mask. But you have to do that in the Pixel Persona.
  23. You're right, the circle turns into a square if I select a square brush. That is the same on Windows. But if it appears as a square or a circle when I start AP depends on which of both forms I had selected before. So it is not a square everytime I start AP. At least on Windows. I think this point is not so important. You may probably think that the Pixel Brush should appear as a square, because pixels have the shape of a square. But I don't think that this is really the most important point of this tool. The main difference between the Paint Brush Tool and the Pixel Tool is that the Pixel Tool always paints hard strokes, no matter what adjustments you make. The AP Help says: "The Pixel Tool draws pixel-aligned, hard-edged lines. This is in contrast to the Paint Brush which may have a slight pixel variance due to its antialiasing." In GIMP for example the similar tool is called Pencil Tool, and it is described in the Tool Tips as follows: "Hard edged painting". That is the most characteristic point of this tool. The name "Pixel Tool" might be a little misleading.
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