Jump to content
You must now use your email address to sign in [click for more info] ×

Walt D

Members
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Bingo! I got a perfect match. Used a colored fill layer using the eyedropper to sample my desired color. Tried each of the blend modes and found that "color" worked the best. Thank you very much Gnobelix!
  2. Hi guys, sorry for the delayed response. Attached is the affinity file. I'm trying to apply an RGB value of 100, 100, 126 to the rocks of this image. Sorry that its a low res jpg. Thanks, Waltmatterhorn.afphoto
  3. Guys, I've got a composite image of a mountain peak that need color adjustment. The base layer Rock Color has a blueish tint, and my top layer of the peak has more of gray color. I've tried curves, HSL, white balance & etc, but I just can't get the peak to match. The Color Replacement Brush seems like the perfect tool for the job, but I can't get it to work. I use my color picker to identify the RGB of the desired color and make that my paint color and it will paint the blue sky, but will not paint the rocks on the mountain (see below). What am I doing wrong? Is there too much variation on rocks for the tool to work? It just does not like to paint any color on a gray background. Any other alternatives?
  4. Hello Everyone, Like lots of folks, I've been looking for a better piece of software to replace my Lightroom 6. My needs are RAW development (not so much DAM), HDR, Pano and Focus Stacking and I'm not interested in rentals. For my Fuji Raw files, LR6 does OK, but the issues with the x-trans files can be a problem. After a day of software comparative testing, I was surprised with what I found. LR6: IQ Score 7/10 - Lightroom has been a good tool for me, but version 6 is getting long in the tooth feature wise. Its using Adobe Camera Raw 7.1 which is not the best for Fuji files. It also lack the ability to do Luminosity Masks, which I really need for my landscape images. I'm careful with the sharpening parameters so it produces acceptable images. 200% pixel peeping might say otherwise, but that's not important to me. ON1 2021: IQ Score 8/10 - I'm working with a free trial of this software and have decided that it just doesn't fit my style. I'm not a big Preset user and I don't like "Stylized" photos. I prefer lots of manual sliders, curve manipulation & etc. I guess I'm more old school (and slow) in my post processing. Still, I found the image quality very good and the masking tools easy to use. It obviously lacks the precision control of Affinity Photo / Photoshop for the pixel editing but the ability to work on RAW files with these tools is desirable. Affinity Develop: IQ Score 9/10 - Based on what I've read, this was unexpected. For my Fuji raw files, Affinity Develop Persona created images with the best detail, color and tones in my test. HDR results were even better. BUT, the downside is that the develop settings are baked in and can't be revisited once you click Develop. Bummer! Capture One: not tested since it lacks HDR or Pano support So, for now I'll just stick with the combo of LR6 / Affinity for my day to day images. For the occasion "wall hanger" image, I'll do the raw development in Affinity Develop Persona. Walt Disclaimer: This was an unscientific test based on my images reviewed with my eyes. YMMV.
  5. OK guys - I finally figured out the source of my confusion. In LR, when I process a raw file, the sky has a huge dynamic range. LR, as a raw editor enables me to manipulate this range. I can take a blown out sky and pull it (exposure/highlight/contrast) way down to reveal hidden details. The data is there in the raw file. I can do the same thing in Affinity Developer. I can adjust Exposure, highlights & contrast to get the same result. Unfortunately, as soon as I click "develop" and go from the Develop to the Photo Persona, much of this range is not available. I can manipulate it, but it has much less range. I didn't understand the difference between a Raw editor and a Pixel Editor. So I'm trying to understand what that means. Should I develop the raw file as close to finish result as possible (either LR or Affinity Develop) before I ever star edits in AP? Thanks, Walt
  6. I converted the raw to DNG in LR, and no longer have the RAF - see attached DNG. The 16bit sRGB TIFF is too large to upload. hburg_pic.dng
  7. The luminosity masks are very powerful no doubt. I've been using Dave's "Smart 'n' Simple" Luminosity Mask Macros which really allow me to put adjustments on select parts of the image. I'm also a huge fan of the Blend Range Adjustments for tweaking stuff. I guess that's why I'm a little frustrated - I can manipulate all kinds of adjustments (curves, exposure, levels & etc) on specific parts of the image, yet I can't make it look natural like the basic gradient tool in Lightroom. I guess the key to Blending the sky to the foreground is to not use hard edge masks at all. This is the best I'm able to get at the moment. I know there are lots of halo's and hard edges, but I was just practicing to see if I could manipulate the foreground, mid ground, far ground and sky. I'm just a novice at this, but I'm pretty pleased with this fantastic software!
  8. Good points, but since I have LR 6, the only way I can "unmask" the tops of the mountains from my gradient is to use an erase brush. I wish I had the newer LR tools with Luminosity masking. So far, I've tried Curves, Brightness and Contrast, Levels, Exposure, Highlights. None of these work as well as LR to get a natural colorful sky. I guess I'll keep trying different combinations of the adjustments. Thanks, Walt
  9. Hello all. I've been comin up to speed on Affinity Photo for a few weeks and I'm super impressed. Especially how I can process my Fuji Raws (landscapes) in Lightroom and then open in Affinity so seamlessly. BUT, one thing has be stumped. In Lightroom, I can use a grad filter to drop exposure and highlights on my sky - see attached images 1 & 2. I took the base image and applied -1.6 exposure and -25 highlights. It looks great except for the fact that I darkened the mountain tops (that's why I'm learning Affinity) When I do the same in Affinity, the sky just gets dark and gray. Best I can do is with a Curves / Brightness adjustment - see attached image 3. So my question is, what Layer Adjustments in Affinity Photo are equivalent to Lightroom's Exposure & Highlight reduction? There's got to be a way. Its obvious that the "Exposure Slider" in Lightroom is not really exposure but a combination of several things. Thanks, Walt
  10. OK, thanks guys. Don't get me wrong, I do like the effect of haze in the valleys but sometimes I think it gets too strong.
  11. Hello everyone. Even though I'm a new user, I'm delighted with all the edits I've been able to learn so far from from this board and from Youtube tutorials. However, I've got a common problem in my images that I can't find a solution for. I live in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, and they are called Blue Ridge because of the very common haze that hangs in the valleys. I'm trying to reduce the white, washed out sections between the mountains. I can make individual masks for each range, then manually adjust (brightness, blacks, clarity) but its hard to keep it looking natural. Any ideas? Attached is the jpg, the raw file was too large. Thanks, Walt
  12. Excellent. I had to turn on the info panel, it was not visible. Also, seeing the selection and / or the layer in the histogram is most helpful. Thanks!
  13. Hello, I'm new to Affinity Photo and am just learning how to use all the layer adjustment and selection tools. Is there an easy way to pick a area on my background image and have it show on the Histogram? I want to be able determine what tone a certain part of my image is. Obviously I can tell Darks and Highlights, but mid-tones are tricky. I think the Blend Range tool would be easier to use if I knew what tone I needed to adjust. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines | We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.