Carajp

If you're looking to access Affinity V2 from another app on Windows - for example, using Affinity Photo V2 as an External Editor in Raw Therapee, you will need to point to the app's execution alias. They can be found here (assuming default installation location):
Affinity Photo V2:
C:\Users\[USERNAME]\AppData\Local\Microsoft\WindowsApps\AffinityPhoto2.exe
  Affinity Designer V2:
C:\Users\[USERNAME]\AppData\Local\Microsoft\WindowsApps\AffinityDesigner2.exe
  Affinity Publisher V2:
C:\Users\[USERNAME]\AppData\Local\Microsoft\WindowsApps\AffinityPublisher2.exe

I once had to rebuild my system disc manually after a slow hardware fault which led to my nightly backup already being corrupt. A nightmare which took me a week at 16 hours/day. I can only recommend having several off-line system disk image backups. I use Acronis and this saved my life when an SSD failed. 

Here's what really scares me about this:   sooner or later, my hard drive or PC fails, and I have to rebuild my system.   That might be a year from now and I won't remember any of this hoo-ha about how V2 installs as a app - so I'll have to figure it out all over again.  What a PITA.   
 

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I second this. The interface is hard on older eyes and it's easy to pick the wrong tool when they're so tiny. (2440 27in screen)

Thank you very much for your help. I'll stick with ON1 Photo Raw on my laptop then. Still have Affinity on my desktop, which is where I do the vast majority of my editing anyway. And I prefer the raw development in ON1, and that's about 90% of the stuff I bother with til I get back my my desktop with it's nice big screen!
It's not really a hassle, and certainly not worth paying again for some marginal convenience. And ON1 let me download and sign in on the Air without a murmur.
Thanks for the heads up.

Shame about the Unsplash removal, but I totally understand why. It makes you wonder if Pexels and Pixabay might do the same. There's also a possibility for M&A in the photo sharing world.
A thought. Unsplash wants donations of photos from photographers (as do Pexels and Pixabay). What if there was a way for Affinity users to easily submit images to them? If their API could handle it, then good. But if not, perhaps even a link would help. Or maybe Serif could even pre-emptively build value (including for Affinity users) with some half-way interface. This could be a significant lever in negotiations.
Regarding this, I notice through my InAffinity channel that many of my users are older. Like me, there's a pattern of folks retiring and getting deeper into photography (just look at the demographic of the average photographic club). This might indicate a greater average willingness to freely share images and less need to make money, as these are retirees who have made their mark and hav sufficient pension at least to indulge in camera kit. This would be a splendid source for the photo sharing sites, and making it seamlessly easier to contribute would be of great value to them.

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

You can also spend hours going down the rabbit hole of film sims by using infer LUT in AP with the help of the Raw Therapee film sim collection.  The collection is based on a HALD CLUT image (a synthetic image of a wide range or color, used as a reference) and the altered HALD images with each film sim applied to them.  You use them in AP by implying the Infer LUT operation just as you have done - the reference HALD CLUT image is loaded first and then the altered HALD film sim image is loaded.  AP infers the LUT and applies the film sim for that HALD image.
https://rawpedia.rawtherapee.com/Film_Simulation
Have fun!
Kirk 

Here is an online resource for altering LUTs, including changing their resolution:
http://cameramanben.github.io/LUTCalc/LUTCalc/index.html
Have fun!
Kirk

You may be exporting your LUTs from AP at a very high resolution, which might be necessary if the LUT does some really wild mapping, but is usually not necessary for many milder applications.  In the Export LUT dialog, turn the LUT resolution ("Quality") down to something reasonable - try a smallish resolution first to see if it is sufficient to make your images look the way you want without causing banding or other artifacts.  If you need to increase the resolution to address artifacts, do it in reasonable increments until you see the artifacts go away.
For example, I made a LUT in AP, based on a white balance and a curves adjustment, and exported it at 17x17x17 and again at 34x34x34.  The 17x LUT was about 135kB, the 34x LUT was about 1.1 MB, or about 2^3 or 8 times larger, as you would expect.  Think of the LUT as a cube of color - if you double each edge of the cube, its volume increases eight-fold (two cubed).
Also, remember that LUTs are not color space aware, so if you are using, for example, an sRGB document or working color space in AP as the basis for making the LUT, the transform contained in the LUT will only really be accurate (give you what you expect) for transforming images that are in the color space for which the LUT was constructed (ie, sRGB).
 
Kirk

This might save you some work: 
 

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

I second this. The interface is hard on older eyes and it's easy to pick the wrong tool when they're so tiny. (2440 27in screen)

I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to.
So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files.
I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well.
I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts!
Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out.
Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip

Check in the Miscellaneous section.

Dealing with gradients in masks is a well known nighmare in Affinity. If one needs a mask that fades from white to black on both sides you either have to define a more complex gradient structure (what itself is a "pain in th a*** " since AP keeps forgetting all settings instantly ... or is it "deliberately" ... sorry - "by design" of course). Certainly if you need this kind of gadient more often. Thankfully the gradient resets to a default setting that for sure no one ever will be able to use - so we can be sure each time you need a gradient, extra effort is involved.
Or you have to merge 2 seperate masks into one - what is a quite "non-intuitive" task as well ...
If at least the gradient itself would be kept "editable" in the mask ... but it is simply converted into a bitmap and forgotten as well. Seems to be a major Affinity handicap: it keeps forgetting nearly everything ...  it's a bit like having a Cray computer at home with 2KB memory

How do you solve these "challenges"? Has anyone a good idea for a practical workaround with regards to the mask?
This is what I need ... (involves adding 2 more anchorpoints to the gradient setup ...changing the colour of 3 of these anchorpoints and refining the position of the anchorpoints and the 50% setting inbetween of all anchorpoints).
Cheers, Timo
 

 
 

First of all, I must congratulate you because your software is (almost) perfect!
But I would strongly, STRONGLY suggest to do something with gradient tool. This thing does not remember settings - each time I use it I have to go trough process of setting up of what I want. In addition, instead of just painting a gradient on active layer it creates an object (rectangular box that is completely useless) with a gradient, it behaves like a tool in vector program, not bitmap editor.
It is basically not possible to quickly paint several gradients on a layer. When I try to paint second one, it immediately erases previous one.
Also, in gradient tool there is gradient editor (quite complete and functional) in top context menu, but for some reason there is no such function on the dockers? It should be easy to move the same thing to color editing window/docker.
 
PLEASE, make gradient tool behave like in Krita or Photoshop, ie like a kind of brush (after we paint gradient we should be able immediately create new one without any confirmations or clicking). Ability to 'dynamically modify gradient' is something that should be reserved to Designer, not bitmap editor. Also the direction in which we paint the gradient is counter intuitive (ie opposite of all other programs) - the gradient ends with chosen color instead of starting with it.
 
 

I noticed that right click does not have any function yet. It would be nice to have a context menu on right click opening up a small quick access window to some shortcuts depending on the tool you have selected. For the paint brush tool it could be:
last used brushes, maybe also a quick brush selection for favourite brushes/ or specific brush category sliders for: width, opacity, flow, hardness a small color selector

Would be great to have an ability to have several gradient tools defaults. Which remembers colors, points on line and gradient type altogether.
Initial state of gradient tool (including color and type of gradient) should not be "hardcoded"
Just like choosing brush predefines size, blend mode, etc (if set in brush)