yakk

Great !! Thanks a lot GarryP !

Hi, I remember finding the answer a while ago but I cannot find it again. When you break a curve, you get two vertices instead of one. How can you select the one under ? If I remember well, there is a trick for that. Thanks.

Hi Gabe Sorry for the late reply. I just tested in the 1.8.3 version. Seems to be the same but after several tests, I can tell that the crop dimensions are changed depending of the image layout. For example the Insta portrait cropping preset (1080x1350) will become automatically 1350x1080 on a landscape layout photo. I can understand the logic behind but it should be possible to specify that the chosen dimensions are absolut, not dependant of the image format. Thanks for the follow up on that.

Hi I created presets for Instagram cropping, one in landscape mode, the other one in portrait (1080 x 566 & 1080 x 1350). If I use one format, the other one got its dimensions exchanged. For example, if I use portrait, the landscape format becomes 566 x 1080.

Sorry, my bad. I didn't notice you were using the Windows version.

The images you took as an example are pretty dark, it can explain why you see a big difference, the camera trying to generate a more balanced jpg. You can also try to change the RAW engine in "View > Assistant Manager..." and change the RAW engine from Serif Labs to Apple and reopen your files to see if the default development is different.

Hello Colin, The jpg image is already processed inside the camera from the raw version, following the settings defined by the manufacturer. The RAW file contain much more information but what you see when you open it, it's a flat version of the image it contains and through the develop persona, you'll define how you want it to be processed by Affinity (contrast, saturation, sharpness, etc.). You have a list of videos tutorials with a complete section for RAW development.

Hi Sharkey May be you should create a brush of the signature and apply it in your macro.

Hi Steve You can use the USB cable you had with your camera but if you want to be more comfortable, you'll need a longer one, 5m max. The official one from Canon is the USB IFC-500U. It's USB to mini-USB type B. On the computer you'll need an application which is able to manage the tethering. AP cannot. Capture One can and I think Lightroom too.

Hi st87 If snapping is active, you'll have a little attraction on the edges while moving your cropping frame.

Yep, would be great. Another useful feature would be the possibility to rename a spare channel by double clicking on it instead of right click / rename.

Ok, I see. Sorry, I never used PS Glad Alfred offered a suitable solution though.

Hi Yurii Create a pixel layer and fill it with the bucket.

Yep. Being able to save profiles as presets or to copy from one layer to another would be great.

Hi I had the occasion to work on some photos yesterday night with the 1.6.6 version of AP on Mac and I had several crashes. I cannot give a specific manipulation to reproduce it, it wasn't complicated retouching, just few layers, few adjustments. It always happened when operating a change on the layer panel though, changing a visibility, adding a layer,... I transfered all the crash reports to Apple. I noticed it just because version 1.5 was very stable for me. Tx

Hi all If I can join de thread, I have an example where changing the behavior a bit, with both pixel layer and adjustments in a group would be useful. I'm currently working on switching from luminosity masks to "blend if" profiles. I do this by creating groups with at least a curve adjustment in each one and for each group I define a profile in the blend option of the group to target shadows / midtones / highlights. It works perfectly, you can add other adjustments and also modify the blend profile of the group precisely. The only problem is you don't have a visual feedback of what part of your image is concerned by each group. To get that, you have to create a pixel layer with a flashy color and put it in the group. The adjustments are off then. You need to delete or put the pixel layer somewhere else to get the effects back. I totally understand when design choices must be made by a dev team and I'm not able to evaluate potential problems, but wouldn't be possible to switch from one behavior to the other when you deselect the pixel layer ? May be there's other way to achieve that though. PS. By the way, didn't have the occasion yet but thanks a lot for the 1.6 versions ! :-)

Good job guys ! Get some rest :)

Many thanks for that ! :)

I'm a bit late but congrats Matt ! :)

Hi kooki It's in the projects for the future. But Serif didn't announce any ETA yet. Can't wait for it too !

You should give a look to the the post from James, Photo FAQ with tutorials. You have a Vimeo channel for Affinity products with a lot of simple or more advanced tutorials. In your case, you have in particular Frequency separation and a speed retouching session.

Hey guys Great to read this and I cannot express how much I agree with what R C-R said earlier. You make a really great job and it's a pleasure to be part of the journey of scratching the monopoly of the A products. But even if there still a lot to do, this forum and the direct link to the devs and the great help provided by the mods, Miguel at the first place of course, is definitely what gives confidence in using your apps now and for the future. <send message>By the way, can't wait to beta test the DAM ;) ;) ;) </send message>

If you want to try a mask instead of the method Michael described, select the upper layer and add a mask to it (the icon at the bottom of the layer panel). Be sure to select the mask square on the layer panel and you can paint on it in black, white and any shade in between. The white will let the part of the upper image visible, the black will make it disappear and then make visible the underlying layer. If you use a hard brush the transition will be immediate, if you use a soft brush or a gradient, you can obtain a smooth transition between your images.

Hi wannd In Photo, I guess the simplest way is to copy and paste (or place) the new image in a new layer above the one you want to replace and resize it. If you want the new image to be the exact same dimension, switch on snapping before dragging the corners. Once finished, you just have to delete the first image.

Impressive ! Well done