AntiqueFlaneur
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Posts posted by AntiqueFlaneur
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Hi guys. Thanks for all your help over the last few weeks as I've started to learn Affinity Publisher.
Would you be willing to critique the layout of the first chapter of a book I"m laying out? I'd love feedback on font choices, layout, and any other factors you think need improvement. Thanks!
I've added the project's .afpub file to google drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rglcSB3VGTVghF6vvon6jObluPB3SB2y/view?usp=sharing
I'm attaching the PDF below.
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Looking for a great course on Publisher. Any suggestions?
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19 hours ago, firstdefence said:
Hard to say without seeing those pages in the .afpub file.
@firstdefence I just put it on Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rglcSB3VGTVghF6vvon6jObluPB3SB2y/view?usp=sharing
Thanks for taking a look.
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33 minutes ago, firstdefence said:
Hard to say without seeing those pages in the .afpub file.
I'm trying to upload my afpub file and this forum keeps giving me the error, "-200" and then says "upload failed"
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When I export a book chapter I'm working on as a PDF, I notice that on page 18, 22, 24, and 34 — all left-side-of-document pages — the image is partially darkened.
I'm attaching the PDF and a screenshot of one of the photos in the PDF. How can I fix this?
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I have photos and captions inserted into my text, and I'd like both surrounded by a black border. I have a stroke of 1.5 pts set up for the picture frame the photos are in and the text frames the captions are in. But for some reason that lines do not display with a uniform thickness. See picture below. Anything I can do to even this out?
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I'm laying out a book, and have my master set up to auto-add the page number, beginning with chapter one. However, there is a preface and forward before chapter one as well as other content. Is it possible to have a master set up to auto insert roman numerals for these?
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I've got numerous images with caption boxes underneath them in a project. The boxes are surrounded by a border/stroke, which you control through the text frame menu (View -> studio -> text frame) by turning on the stroke.
But how can I add a similar outline to the whole image, so the caption does not stick out so much? See attached pic for an example.
Thanks!
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I'm attaching a screenshot of a scanned photo I'm trying to remaster. I've straightened it out, done FFT denoise, and am trying to use a curves adjustment layer to improve the image quality. The problem I'm having is that one side of the image is extremely dark. Most of the photo needs to be darkened a bit via curves, but when I do this the left corner turns very dark. Any way to deal with this? I'm also attaching my .afphoto file of the image as well.
Thanks!
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7 hours ago, v_kyr said:
However, in the long end APub will need it's own implementation for book projects, so file seperation capabilities for cover, toc, chapters, index, biblography etc. and for those then an implementation of footnotes/endnotes/bibliography/table of figures/... etc. numbering styles which will then also works across all involved book project seperated files.
@v_kyr or anyone else - Is there a way to get the numbers or Roman numerals to sort of float, as shown in the attached screenshot?
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59 minutes ago, v_kyr said:
Did you initially had to rotate that image 90° after loading it into APhoto? - Maybe some 90° orientation setting was mixed up during save or the like.
Yes, I had to rotate it when I first opened it.
Thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated.
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25 minutes ago, v_kyr said:
Yes your .aphoto file behaves as you said here too, I've embedded/placed into AD. - But when I create a new doc of that image size, then take your layers merged together over (so one layer) and save the whole then as a new .aphoto file, it afterwards behaves as probably expected.
Here is a slighly new created/modified version of your file, you can give that a try for APub ...
It should now behave hopefully like this in APub too...
Thank you. So is this just a bug, then?
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1 hour ago, v_kyr said:
If you want upload your APhoto file here and we (I believe that at least Walt has a running APublisher version) can then take a closer look why it behaves like you said. I for my part don't have Publisher and thus can only check this then for APhoto/ADesigner.
Thanks!
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53 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:
That's not distorted. The usable part of the image has the correct aspect ratio. Previously, when you used Shift, it did not have the correct aspect ratio.
What appears to be happening is that you did not successfully crop out the parts you didn't want when you edited the original photo. Did you remember to Rasterize & Trim after you performed the Crop, to make the Crop destructive?
What kind of file are you Placing?
42 minutes ago, v_kyr said:Usually you do it for placing in it's original size as Walt suggested, just point and perform one click into the APub document. - However, in your case the intial scanned image file doesn't look to have been previously (after scanning in) be cropped to it's square shape and thus to only the image boundaries accordingly, since it shows other initial book portions too from the book it has been scanned from. - You may either first crop that image accordingly before placing it in, so it gets just it's square shape, or you crop/hide the unwanted portions of that image inside of APub.
You guys were correct in that I had not rasterized and trimmed, so that was part of the issue. Once I did that the excess parts of the photos were gone. I also found that once I did that I could export the photo as a .jpg and place it in publisher without any problems. But the photo is still not displaying properly when placed as a .afphoto file.
See screenshot. It's weirdly placed in the frame and will not stay proportional.
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1 hour ago, walt.farrell said:Quote
By default, if you hold Shift while dragging an image to size it while Placing it, you override the aspect ratio and allow it to distort.
Just drag, without holding Shift.
@walt.farrell When I do this without shift I still get a distorded image that seems to have elements of the original unedited photo. The page fold you see is part of the original scan that I edited out of the photo previously.
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I'm trying to place the attached photo into a Publisher document. I click on the place image tool menu bar item, select this photo, hold down shift and attempt to drag it to the right size while maintaining the aspect ratio.
The end result looks like the screenshot I've attached. It doesn't maintains its aspect ratio, and also adds in weird bits of the original unedited photo.
What can I do about this?
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I understand Publisher doesn't have footnote/endnote/annotation capabilities, but I'm wondering about work arounds. The book I'm laying out has 3-6 annotations per chapter, and I think putting them at the end of each chapter is a better option than cramming them at the end of the book. What's my best bet for creating the "endnote," style numerals to note that the end note is available at the end of the chapters?
Anything else to consider when creating the frame texts for the endnotes?
Any good guides been written on workarounds?
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1 hour ago, markw said:
At the top of FFT window you will see that you can also control the other parameters of the brush that you are using, not just it’s size.
Adjusting these for use in different areas will sometimes give a more nuanced control over what is happening to the image.
I also prefer working with the ‘Split View’ option selected to see what effect I’m getting in different areas of the image.The “Raster Crop” near the beginning is just the regular Crop Tool in Photo, just to get rid of the majority of the unwanted pixels surrounding the oval area.
The actual oval "crop" was done with an elliptical Curve shape dragged onto the image to act as a clipping mask.
If you go to the beginning of the History and click on each entry in the History Panel you can effectively “play back” the steps to see what’s happening.Although I didn’t do it in my examples, I would agree with the others here that in general, setting your working file to 16bit at the start will give you more tonal values to work with and reduce the risk of “banding” in any large areas containing tonal gradients. (Although in these two images that is not too much of a concern).
When restoring old or damaged images a lot of it is experimentation as you go.
The more you do, the more successes you will have with the individual steps and so the library of steps you can try on the problem areas of any new images increases.
And whilst it’s rarely ever as easy as always do; A followed by B, C & D = done! You will begin to develop a general "feel" for the rout you want to take and what steps might be needed to get you there.@markw Thanks!
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9 hours ago, markw said:Quote
Attached are two processed images from your other thread about these images, with saved history so you can see what I did.
@markw
I noticed that you managed to crop the image in an oval. When I look at the history log, it mentions a "raster crop." Is that how you made the ovular crop? Can you explain how you did that? I've only seen the rectangular crop tool on the left-side toolbar. -
9 hours ago, Old Bruce said:
This is what I meant. Would change the bit depth to 16bits before doing any work though, get a nicer result.
That's done while exporting the finished image, right? So you select 16bit TIFF or Photoshop PSD? Are there setting I need to change to 16 bit inside Photo as well? If so, where is the menu to do it? I did find this, but I'm not sure if it's relevant.
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7 hours ago, markw said:
The filter can take some practice but I think it could remove more of the patterning still.
I followed the tutorial video posted in the other thread. I've attempted to click on all the specs of light except for the center one. I zoomed out. Attached is a pic of what the filter screen looks like when I'm done. Is there something else I should be doing with the filter?
Thanks so much for including the pics with the editing history. Very helpful
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9 hours ago, Old Bruce said:
Try using a Curves adjustment layer.
Just exploring this now. Definitely gives more control than the Multiple option. Thanks.
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I'm new to photo editing, and trying to maximize the quality of old photos which have recently been scanned. The photos do not have any rips/blemishes.
So far, I have found that FFT denoise filter makes a small but solid improvement to the photos by reducing some graininess.
I'm not sure if I'm right about this because I don't really have an eye for it, but it appears to me that using the "multiply" layer effect seems to darken my photos a bit and makes the detail easier to see.
Are there any other level adjustments, filters, or tools I should play around with to improve this further, or is this likely the quality I'm likely to get? Most of the tools I've looked at don't seem to affect B&W photos much.
I'm attaching an original unedited photo and what it looks like after going through FFT denoise and the multiply effect.
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I'm putting a caption below a picture and would like to surround the text frame with a solid black line on all sides. I'm sure this functionality is in Affinity Publisher, but I just wasted a good 30 minutes looking through menus and searching google with no luck (probably don't know the right words to search). Can anyone help me out? Thanks!
Why does publisher darken part of my photos when I export PDFs?
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
@Wosven Damn! I wish I knew that from the start. Can you tell me how I would go about doing that if I was starting from the beginning? And is there any way to go through and change everything over?