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RBTSMPSN

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  1. Yes to this. I’m working on about 20 RAW files all shot under the exact conditions. Having a preset or macro or batch develop for RAW would be great. As now I have to process each file individually. A preset would save time.
  2. I open my RAW images in the Develop Persona. I always use the highlight and shadow clipping indicators. I adjust exposure, contrast, vibrancy, clarity, etc, etc, etc. But I’ve noticed as soon as I make a saturation adjustment the clipping indicators go away. It doesn’t matter the amount of adjustment. If I add 1% saturation the indicators go away.
  3. My daughter is a high school cheerleader and I take pictures of all the girls at each game and upload them to Dropbox for all the parents, coaches, and the school’s yearbook staff. After I uploaded a batch from the last game I noticed there were a few images with much lower file sizes. I shoot RAW, develop in Affinity Photo on my iPad Pro, save as a JPEG to either my camera roll or an external hard drive, then upload to Dropbox. The images are always between 18 and 24mb, depending on the crop. But this time there were a few that were 8-10mp. In Affinity Photo I make my adjustments in the Develop Persona and the only other edits I do is with the clone tool or in painting brush. I opened the smaller mb images to see what was different with these images and noticed that each of them were ones I’d applied a filter to. They either had the depth of field blur added or a vignette added. I rarely add filters. Curious. Why were the images I added a filter to reduced in size when I exported from Affinity Photo? Thanks.
  4. Hey thanks. I tried it. That can be a work around when I need it. Thanks again.
  5. Here’s what I’m wanting to do. I have multiple RAW images. All were taken together under exact lighting conditions. All images will require the exact adjustments - exposure, black point, contrast, white balance, saturation, etc, etc. Is there a way to open one image, make all my adjustments and save those adjustments like a macro to run on the rest of the RAW images that were from the same shoot? Thanks for any help.
  6. Here’s another example. The file opened is RAW. I’ve attached a screenshot. There is clipping, indicated in red, on the whites of the waves. Notice the histogram, it’s weighted heavily to the left. I developed it and printed it. See the picture of my print. It’s extremely dark just like the histogram reflects. But, when I open the JPEG of the same image, it’s only slightly lighter on my iPad, the histogram shows a more evenly balanced exposure and the print looks good (close to what I see on my iPad). Thanks for any help.
  7. Here’s screen shots of the RAW and JPEGS opened. Same picture, different histograms.
  8. DM1, thanks. I checked and it was set to Take No Action.
  9. I’m shooting on a Sony A6500 RAW + JPEG. I can open the JPEG version of the file and see in the histogram that the image was correctly exposed. The image looks great on my iPad, and when I print it, the print looks great. This is with no editing, slight cropping only. When I open the RAW version of the same image it looks just slight darker on my iPad, but very close. But the histogram shows the image is extremely underexposed, not how the image actually looks. If I print the image with no editing, the print reflects what the histogram indicates. The print is extremely dark with only the highlights showing, everything else is black or near black. To get the RAW image to print to match the JPEG print I have to bump the exposure to blow out even the mid tones. The histogram shows it very overexposed, but the print looks good. So basically processing a RAW image is impossible. The histogram doesn’t reflect what the image actually looks like. When looking at the metadata, both files show the exact camera settings. It’s the same picture, one JPEG and the other RAW. What do you suggest? Am I missing something in settings? Thank you.
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