Nazario

How do i update a linked image and where can i see a list of assets (linked images) within used within the document?

I tried again today and the welcome screen updated after a few seconds to show the link, so I've managed to download them now. Not that it matters now but I have both the latest Photo and Designer on latest High Sierra.

I'm confused as hell too. Got 1.6 from the App Store (Mac). No welcome screen links (I have the welcome screen), so I created a store account which was confusing as you can't actually do that without seemingly buying something. I obviously cancelled my order before hitting confirm hoping the account I created would still work. It seems so however there is nothing showing in my downloads section in my newly created account?! It was a pain in the ass claiming the brushes last time round. What gives guys?

Can you explain how to do this as Pressure on my set up does nothing at all to the stroke?!

I'd like to see (if at all possible) the ability to draw a line with the pen tool and then click on each node and set a stroke width at each node so the stroke width could vary along the length of the stroke. Imagine if you will, drawing an S shape. Then set the lower node to say 50px and the upper node to 5px it would instantly give you a stroke that looks like a road disappearing into the distance.

My dad is a keen photographer however he is not very computer literate. I got him into Affinity Photo and he loves going through the tutorial videos on the website and learning how to use Affinity. He'd spend hours a day watching videos then recreating what he'd seem. He even showed me a few things I didn't know. Today however he came to me saying the videos section had changed and he can't find the videos like before and some are talking about stuff he has no idea about. I had a look and the tutorials page now just takes you to a Vimeo page with affinity designer and affinity photo videos all intermingled over 23 pages with no way to search for what you want. You just have to wade through 23 pages of videos picking out just the ones you want to watch. Before they were all clearly sectioned and listed and it was all very simple. Why has the tutorials section taken a massive step backwards? What was wrong with the layout before. I found it incredibly refreshing that you could just find all the videos you wanted, related to a particular subject all in one place. Clearly labelled and easy to work you way through them all. Now it's a complete mess.

Hi MEB, It seems it just took quite a while to come through. Affinity is on my whitelist so I was pretty sure it wasn't being blocked or going in spam. It took a good 10 minutes to come through though. Thanks for your quick response though :)

The link for me never came through and when i try to input my details again for it to resend the link it says I've already registered. Can someone provide me with the link?

The font you have used as Im sure you're aware has very fine details. Even at large type sizes. Its not just the serfs but the strokes too as they have a slight curve to them which will expand over more than one line of pixels if that makes sense. The particular font won't ever really get drawn well when rasterised except at huge sizes.

I don't see anything unusual myself. If you are referring to the small reversed out type then at such a small size and PPI it will always look poor. I would suggest increasing the type size to accommodate more pixels to allow for a cleaner edge. The strokes are much too thin to be accurately drawn with pixels. Best practice as other have said would be to design at the size you will be exporting as.

Interesting but not as simple as a single click make what should be white, white.

I think I may of found a quick way of doing it. Not completely satisfied it will work every time though but I tried it on a few different tints. Basically open the file and then click each of the four 'Auto' buttons at the top but in reverse order. So 'Auto Whitebalance' first, then auto colours, then contrast then levels. If you sample the white background after doing this it shows a CMYK value of 0,0,0,0.

There are a few ways to do this. The easiest way in my opinion is to select the area you want then click 'layer mask' then go to Export and save as a TIFF. Unfortunately Affinity still shows the preview with a black background which can be confusing but if you import it into another app it does work and the background disappears. This was logged as a bug a while back by myself and a few others I think, while the process now works the icon preview still shows up wrong. Give it a shot. I've attached a little video and a screenshot of the icon with black background. I've also attached a screenshot of the image in InDesign showing its transparency over a red box. alphamask.mov

When that happens I use a bit more surface cleaner so it seeps inside the ball hole a little bit. This takes longer to unclog as obviously its stubborn stuff your trying to get at and also there is extra liquid to dry off after. If its not dry the ball will just slip on the wheels and they won't rotate. Obviously as you say it does matter what crud you are getting in there but I can clean mine out every time. One time I thought Id pressed so hard (frustrated) I had given the ball a flat spot trying to free the ball. Thinking it was a fruitless task but worth a shot I still managed to bring it back and get all the crap out, just took a few minutes longer. Not that we should be having to do this but thats Apples shoddy design again.

Yeh the ergonomics really appeal to me but i think I'd miss 360 degree scrolling too much.

I still use a Mighty Mouse at work (the one with the physical scroll ball). While it does clog up very easily it does also clean quite easily too if you know how ;) Many people think once its clogged thats it. Its not. What you have to do is get a sheet of paper - Recycled jotting pad paper is best as its quite absorbent and its roughness helps scrape crap off the ball better than most other paper (do not use a coated paper as it will make things worse) - drip or spray a small amount of water or surface cleaner on the paper, just enough to make it damp in an area about the size of the base of a cup something but not enough to soak it through - one squirt should do. Let it soak for a few seconds. Unplug the mouse then roll the it upside down in all directions in the damp bit. The dampness and paper will pick off all the crap from the ball after a good few rolls. Make sure not to over do the water/spray as the paper will tear and then you have to get that out too as well as the excess liquid will get inside the mouse and take even longer to clear. Sometimes a stubborn particle may mean it takes a few minutes to clear completely but it works over time and I've been using Mighty Mouse from day one. Doing this you can actually see the dirt come off in lines on the paper and even individual particles as end up on the paper. I often go and make a coffee and while its brewing take my mouse with me and give it a good clean in the canteen, when i get back to my desk its good as new. On the flip side the Mighty Mouse (and pretty much all Apple Mice) give me really bad RSI. What are logitech ones like? Are they simple enough to set up in OSX regarding drivers etc? Whats the 'Trackman Marble' like?

You don't need a mouse no. It may be easier with some tasks but as you point out your MacBook doesn't have a mouse. It wouldn't make sense for Affinity to make software that can only be used with a mouse. You can use a graphics tablet too which again can make things easier or harder depending on what you're doing. Its whatever you are used to, the inputs are almost irrelevant as that comes more down to the operating system so as long as they can reproduce the commands required for basic pointing and clicking. You'll be fine. As for which mouse, you can use pretty much any. Even a cheap £5 Microsoft crappy plastic one :)

Hmmm... it doesn't seem to work like Photoshop whereby making that part white. It just lightens it a bit but the hue remains. I do this a quick way of making the background white without having to mask anything. Would be great If I could do this quickly in AP without having to faff around or use PS.

I work with many logo files that get sent to me in various raster formats. Often so poor in quality its damn near painful. Often they have been so compressed again and again the white background has changed to a tint of yellow or magenta. Using Photoshop a quick way of returning the background back to white is opening the levels panel and using the white eyedropper. Clicking on the background and it turns to white. How can I do this in Affinity Photo without manually adjusting the sliders and hoping I get it right/white?

yep.

Creating the other track parts I've done it a better way. I created a curve with the pen tool at the width I want, i.e. the rails, expanded the stroke, converted to curves, opened the shape and deleted the bits I don't need. The result is a perfect inner and outer rail. The hard part now is getting the wooden sleepers (dotted line) to follow the same curve without AD making the inner edge smaller than the outer edge because it looks wrong but theres no way to stop AD from doing it that I can see.

The shading is oil and dirt falling from the trains. I suppose you wouldn't actually notice that on the rails that switch over as they would remain shiny. I'll look into thanks.

Heres the finished article. Im making track sections so you can build your own railway using the pieces. The grid you see depicts each pixel so it will be really quite small, essentially like you see in this thread before you click on the image to enlarge it. Looks ok I think though.

Yeh it again distorts the gap between the rails. You have to allow for the outer curve being wider than the inner curve. It sounds simple to achieve but its actually quite complicated, especially when you are rubbish at maths like me haha. I done it by eye and its looking better than before. Just finishing up the rest of it and i'll post a finished switch to end the thread. Im sure theres a better mathematical way but I've just done it freehand :wacko:

I've been tearing my hair out trying to do this :P I was expecting to be able to select the line between the nodes and then hit backspace or something. Thanks.