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raphaelbolius

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Everything posted by raphaelbolius

  1. Thanks for the answer. MB Air, M2, 24GB RAM I guess is not enough. I have a MB Air, M1 and 16GB RAM, and it is definitely not enough. I think, that the MB Pro and at least 32GB of RAM should be the minimum. But that is what I want to find out. 32GB or 64GB? But thank you for your experiance.
  2. No, My Macbook is only a Macbook Air, and it is the smaller one of the two first models with the new m1 chip. But that is exactely the point: a MacbookPro hat 8 cores, mine only has seven. Additionally it has no ventilation, therefore it works gets slower the more it reaches the limit. But, I must admit, that I can (!) work with 80 files that are stitched together. But it is not comfortable at all. Sometimes (e.g. if you use several layers) it stopps working. My personal thougt goes like this: MB Air, 16GB RAM, M1 chip, 7 cores >>> I can work, but it is not comfortable at all. It is very unpleasent/ difficult. MB pro, 32GB RAM, M2 chi, 8 cores >>> I guess it should be OK. Maybe 64GB RAM would be better, but I guess (?) it is not absolutely necessary to buy the 64GB machine. As I told you, it is rather for a charity, niot for a photostudio that works with it everyday. Nevertheless I would like to know your opiions. Anyway I could buy 32, test it and exchange it, if it is not OK. But I would prefere not to do like that.
  3. Yes, I do the stitching in Photo, and I use "normal" RAWs, no HDR. I could also create the images manually from RAW and use the JPGs in order to save memory. That also makes it possible to work on the pictures before exporting them. Here you can see some examples that I did width images of 3.000px width. https://sos-alentejo.org/unterstuetzen/ The website is still in progress. The main problem is, that we are collecting money for a ecological project. Therefore we should not spend too much money in computers. Anyway I have to biy a new Mac, but the price should not be to high. For all other work, 16GB RAM are absolutely enough. Therfore 32 - if possible - would be great. 64 GB RAM is quite expensive.
  4. Hi everybody. I am doimg some research on a similar topic. I have to handle stiched images that are made up from 60 - 80 individual shots. Once the images are merged, the total size will be aprox. 20.000px x 15.000px. Then some adjustments (colors, contrast...) have to be done. Maybe I will have to use several layers. Unfortunately the machine I am using is not built for that kind of work. (Macbook Air, 16GB RAM and M1 Chip) Therefore I have to buy a new Mac, I would prefere a MacbookPro. Does anybody know how much RAM I will need? As I will buy a new book, the Chip will be either a M1 or M2, most probably a M2. Unfortunately you cannot add RAM anymore to the new generation of Macbooks, once you bought them. It would be great if somebody could tell me what to buy. Thanks Raphael
  5. Thank you for the answer. I forgot to say that I would prefere a mobile machine. You are right, I will contact the author of the linked article. Maybe he knows more. Now putting all facts of this thread together: - What I have now (Macbook Air/ 16GB RAM/ M1 Chip/ 250MB SSD) is definitely not enough. (I bought it for other reasons btw) - M1 or M2 does not make a big difference. - I can deactivate all other programs, so the machine can concentrate on Affinity. - Affinity does not support more than 32 MB RAM Conclusion. If so, the best mobile choice is a MacbookPro with an M1 or M2 Chip, 32GB of RAM and a huge SSD. The question that remains is whether the book can handle those inages or not. If not something like a Mac Studio would be necessairy. (I hope the book can do it because the Mac Studio is very expensive and not mobile. As far as I know it was created for videocutting But pictures of 20.000px width seem to me less difficult than cutting vids.) Therefore it would be great if anybody who has a configuration similar to that I quoted (MacbookPro...) could tell us whether it is possible or not.
  6. The problem is not Affinity, but my machine. It is definitely not strong enough to work with pictures of that size. Therefore I want to by a new Mac and I need people who have experiences with modern Macs and working with very big images on these machines. My question is which machine to choose.
  7. Thank you all. What I saw in the built in possibility was really very interesting. Unfortunately my Mac does not really work very well with the big pictures that are created by that tool. What I found out is that I usually take 60 - 80 pictures and that the result is then 20.000px x 15.000px. That are of course only estimations. Anyway I have to buy a new machine and now I need to know which one. I would like to know if a MaccbookPro with 13" and 24GB RAM and the new M2 chip might be enough. They are not that much expensive than the new 14" books.I am using an external screen anyway. Thzerefore the size of the book is not very important. My concerns are rather about the RAM and the chip. Has anybody experiance with that kind of question? Thanks Raphael
  8. Will this be integrated in future versions of the software? I think that what I am doing is quite common.
  9. Hi, community. I have about 1000 RAWs that hate to be treated in exactely the same way: - open RAW - use of a a certain preset . develop - export as a JPG - close file (best would be without saving) Each time I do it manually it takes 20 sec. That will be a lot of time if I do them all manually. Is there any kind of automatisation that I can use e.g. on folders in order to do it automated? Thanks Raphael
  10. Hi community, I have a couple of photos (RAWs) that I want to merge in order to receive a 360° Panoramic shot. Can I do this with Affinity Photo or do I have to buy additional software? If I can do it with Affinity Photo: could someone post a link to a tutorial? That would be great! If not I guess that I will have to buy some software. I did a test with the free version of Panorama Stitcher (Panorama Stitcher Mini/ at panoramastitcher.com) that was quite convinving. But maybe somebody knows even better solutions that are available for the Mac and can be integrated easily into the workflow of Affinity Photo. Thank you! Raphael
  11. On https://www.raymond.cc/blog/signmyimage-protects-your-image-with-invisible-signature/ point 5 I see Digimarc Guardian for Images which seems to be a plugin of Photoshop. It is used like this: go to Filter > Digimarc > Embed Watermark. If that is a good way of adding a invisible watermark that might be the best solition in the workflow. But if - from a technical point of view - an other solution is better, I prefere the better one. Is there a solution for Affinity Photo like Digimarc for Photoshop? In an older post I could see that there is no possibilty. Maybe that changed in the meanwhile. (?) Thanks
  12. Hi community, I am using Affinity Photo and I need some software (or other solutions) that helps me to protect my copyright in case that I pulish images in the web (72dpi only) or have to send images in high resolution (300dpi) to others. Is there any best practice that I can integrate into my workflow with Affinity Photo? I know very well that the possibilities of detecting stolen images are very limited. In the web I have some tools like reverse image search. If they are printed, the detection will be more or less impossible. Watermarks cannot be used in a professional context: Nobody prints pictures with ugly watermarks on. If the watermarks are small, they will not protect the image. But nevertheless I would like to find the best way of protecting my images. If possible I would like to do it after the work in Affinity Photo is done, directly in the programm. I am glad about any propositions! Raphael
  13. By the way: In Adobe Illustrater it is possible. https://www.instructables.com/Turning-a-pixel-image-into-a-vector-image-using-Ad/ But that is why I am with affinity: No more Adobe...
  14. Thanks Walt. do you have any suggestion for such a program? It does not look too much complicated. The font is not the problem, that I can add in affinity designer, but the images (D. Trump and the steamclouid) would take a lot of time to turn them into vectors. On the other hand: Technically it does not look very complicated to have it done by a program.
  15. Hi community, I would like to know if there is a tutorial that describes how to transform pixel-based images into vectors in an automated way. I have some images that were done in affinity photo (see attached image), therefore they are in pixels. I would prefere them in vectors. Off course I could do that manually, using affinity designer, but if there is a automatted way, I would prefere it like that. If so, and you could offer a link to a tutorial, I would be glad! Thanks Raphael
  16. OK, thanks. That explains everything. Unfortunately I could not find it in the FAQ, sorry !
  17. Hi, community, recently I bought an new Mac (it has those new M1 chips) and now i started moving everything to the new machine. How do I do that with affinity designer and affinity photo? Legally I have the right to do so. That I know and that is not the question. But technically? I just grab the programm from the programm folder and move it into the programms folder of the new machine? Or do I have to download it again to the new machine? I bought both apps some tine ago, so I do not remember very well if I have any licence keys or other stuff that might be needed. Maybe someone has a link that explains the topic, cause I maybe that is a common question. Nevertheless I could not find it in the FAQ. Thanks Raphael
  18. I quit Photoshop when they started to rent the software instead of selling it. ( I think that many of us are here because of that.) Nevertheless. Adobe is still standard in design industries. (Unfortunately) Maybe I open another thread on that topic. It might be very important. Betweeen Photo and Photoshop I could not realize any major problems of exchanging files.
  19. OK, I see. My questions and your answers produce more question... Lets try to fix the new questions: And by the way, thanks for the answers! 1) I can use Photo in order to produce true vectors. 2) If I want to do so, I will have to use either pen, text tool or shapes. 3) If I do so and export it to a vector-based file such as SVG or PDF it will have no pixels - even with stong magnification. (2nd example of gdnby, in the post above.) 4) About printing you do not know exactly, but if there are any priniting-problems I will always have the possibility of buying Designer, save it in a better way. --- 5) Anyway buying designer will be the best solution: 100% bulletproof. AND: If I bought Designer it would be much more easy to work with SVGs or PDFs that I receive from third parties. (That is a minor problem, but now i often receive vectors from grafic-designers to implement in websites. They mostly work in Adobe Illustrator and now I have to send these images back if there are minor modifications to be done, cause I do not have a vector based programm. If I had Designer I could do these modifications on my own and would have a better workflow. ) Am I more or less right? Hope so, cause to be honest: It looks muchlike buying Designer.
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