JohnZeman
-
Posts
39 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by JohnZeman
-
-
Happy Thanksgiving all!
Question: Has anyone used AP2 to process Apple iPhone 14 raw files? I don't see 14 on the list of supported cameras at https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/167741-list-of-supported-raw-formats-cameras-for-lens-correction-list-in-affinity-20x/#comment-958781
-
Thanks for your responses all,
My dad always used to say the most embarrassing problems will leave you with a red face. In this situation he was sure right because something in my previous workflow has been deleting all of the pixels in the DNG file. Which would explain why it causes AP2 to crash. The only thing is right now I don't know what I've been doing that deletes all of the pixels.
So I need to re-examine my workflow step by step, something is way wrong with the way I've been doing it if it's deleting pixels.
Anyway, thanks for the help and suggestions I'll figure this out.
-
Thanks for responding Walt.
The DNG raw files were created by the ProCamera app in my iPhone XR.
I've attached a zipped DNG from that app, I can open it and edit it but after saving as an afphoto file it crashes every time I try to re-edit the DNG in the Develop Persona.2020_0913_133755_148.zip2020_0913_133755_148.zip
-
Greetings all,
I've noticed that whenever I open a DNG for raw editing with Affinity Photo 2 in Linked mode that if, after editing and exporting/saving, I go back into the Develop persona later on to make some adjustment changes to the Linked DNG that AP2 immediately crashes hard every time.
Which of course means I cannot do any further editing to the Linked DNG in the Develop Persona which defeats the purpose of having a linked raw.
So I've changed from Linked to Embedded now because at least I can re-edit the raw DNG when AP2 is in embedded mode.
Has anyone else noticed this?
-
It opens the CR3 files from my Canon EOS M50 Mark II all right.
-
Glad you got things working now Bob!
-
Everything works for me in Nik 5 and Affinity Photo 1.10.5.
However I did copy all of the new plug-ins to a different folder as you can see below. I doubt if I would have had to do that but because I did things not only work now but they should still work when the next update to Nik 5 is released.
In my windows machine here is the folder the plug-ins are in after the latest Nik 5 update.
C:\Program Files\DxO\Nik Collection\bin\plugins
-
I've been exporting 16 bit TIFFs from DxO PhotoLab to Affinity Photo for 3 years and I have never seen this problem.
-
For years I have had excellent results following the guidelines in the following tutorial about using the unsharp filter in Photoshop, the procedure is essentially the same for Affinity Photo.
-
My previous answer up above from last night wasn't quite right. After modifying a file if I do a File Save As, you're right, I can only save the file in .afphoto format and the folder defaults to the original folder, just like you said.
However I actually never do that. Instead I always do a File > Export and choose one of the many image formats (but .afphoto is not one of them) and the folder is always the same folder I had last exported to whether it's the original folder or a different one. Then I'll save the original image back to its original folder.
Apologies for the misleading info last night.
-
I'm on Windows 10 and it works the same way for me as Old Bruce said.
-
Rich this is just a follow up comment regarding what you said up above about only being able to find a DAM (Bridge for you) that will automatically stack image sets together.
I've been using IMatch for years, and if you configure it to use file relations it will also automatically stack image sets too. You have to confirm the stacking to do it but it works great.
IMatch is not free however but it has top notch support and I've been very happy with it as my DAM since 2006.
-
Another is the Save History with Document option only works with the .afphoto format, not the TIF format.
- Rich and walt.farrell
-
2
-
A few weeks ago I purchased the Nik 4 collection from DxO and the attached image shows how I had to configure Affinity Photo (for Windows) to use every Nik module.
Note the plug-ins folders I'm using are not the same as what you are showing.
Also I had to enable the "Allow unknown plug-ins to be used" option so the Nik modules in the bin folder would work.
Now all Nik modules work great from Affinity Photo.
-
8 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:
Perhaps a Mac user (unless you are one) will let us know what they see.
I'm using Windows 10.
-
Thank you Walt, the help page you sent a link to does indeed state what you just said.
However the help page that came up when I pressed F1 on my keyboard opened the local help page which does not say a locked layer can still be edited (see attached screenshot).
Apparently the help pages I've been using are out of date.
Anyway, thanks again now I understand.
-
It's been my understanding that locking a layer in Affinity Photo should prevent that layer from being modified.
However using the current version 1.10 locking a layer does not seem to do anything at all, I can still make changes to it.
Am I missing something?
-
34 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:
When you do File > Save in that situation you should get a popup giving you the option of Flattening the file before saving, or of doing a Save As. If you choose Flatten it will save over the original TIFF file, but with all the layers flattened. If you choose Save As, you retain the layers but you get a .afphoto file, not a TIFF.
Thanks Walt. When I open a 16 bit TIF in Affinity Photo, do some editing, adding layers and such, when I go to File > Save I am prompted. But not to flatten the image, I'm prompted as to whether I want to save the TIF with layers or not. I always choose yes and the tif is saved with layers.
And like you said if instead I go to File > Save as, then I can only save the tif as an afphoto file. But I never do that with my current workflow so that's never been an issue. If I need to do a file save as in that situation I'd do a file export as TIF command then give it any name I want.
I guess I'm still confused why the OP isn't able to do this.
-
I'm not the one who posted the original question but I'm confused by both Walt's and Old Bruce's answers.
When I open a 16 bit TIF in photo and edit it adding one ore more layers including adjustment layers, I have no problem saving my edits, layers and all, to the original tif with its original name. Or I can SAVE AS to save it with all layers included but with a different file name.
I've been doing this ever since I started using Affinity Photo over 2 years ago and I've never had a problem.
Obviously I'm missing something because I don't see a problem doing what the OP wants to do or why it doesn't work for him the way it works for me.
-
I'm afraid I can't give you a good answer to that question Phil, I'm a former Photoshop user so it was fairly easy for me to get up to speed when I made the change.
But when I have had questions the Affinity Photo help pages gave me the answers I needed.
-
You can customize the tools shown in Affinity Photo to add the text tools you want.
With the Windows version of Affinity Photo it's Menu > View > Customize Tools.
You can also customize the toolbar that's across the top of the screen in a similar manner.
-
I've been using PhotoLab with Affinity Photo now for the past 2 years or so and I've been very happy with the results.
I usually process my raw images in PhotoLab first because PhotoLab saves the raw editing I do. Which allows me to pick up where I left off editing a raw image or I can reset it back to the way it came out of the camera.
After I've done what I can to the image in PhotoLab I export it as a temporary 16 bit TIF which I open in Affinity Photo. There I put the finishing touches on the TIF before finally exporting it as a high resolution JPG.
The original raw and the final JPG export are stacked and versioned in my IMatch database. The exported TIF I could keep but I usually delete it after I'm done.
-
You're right, I had manually typed in the general format I use.
Obviously I had one too many zeroes.
-
For image renaming I use the YYYY_MMDD_HHMMSS_SSS format. For example if I were to take a photo right now when the local time is 08:30 pm I'd rename the image to be
2021_0413_2030000_000.ext
Where of course .ext would be the file extension of your image.
By renaming my images that way they're always sorted in the order they were taken which is what I want. I'm not suggesting this would be the best way for you to rename images but it's the best way for my needs.
To do the renaming, and to do everything else involving organization, I use IMatch. It's not free but it's very powerful and has top notch support.
iPhone 14 raw files?
in Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
Thank you for this, you've answered my question.
I downloaded the sample raw image and successfully edited it with AP2 so it looks like I'll be going iPhone shopping tomorrow. 😁